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Moody Moon
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This is processed more than a tin of peas but I quite liked
it, I never get a decent night sky (some might say I still havent :roll: )
the moon is still too bright but I liked the clouds, any info on foolproof
settings for this kind of thing would be appreciated. I used a tripod and
a remote shutter release what else is a must?
Not bad at all, I like the moody atmosphere! If you want the moon and some decent sky you have to get out earlier when the moon rises before or just after sunset, if you look up the weather for Dublin at http://www.wunderground.com it will tell you the moon phase and its rising/setting times as well as the weather. Though metcheck.com is better for weather forecasts it doesn’t have astronomy data.
Nice shot. I kinda like it.
I’ve read that using mirror lockup is essential.
During the recent lunar eclipse I used mirror lockup on some of the shots
but to be honest i couldn’t see a huge difference. I have read though that mirror lockup
will remove a little bit more vibration caused by the mechanics of the camera itself.Thanks for looking and commenting, :)
Cian – I have a list of moon rise times for the year so I must
have a look at them, I just liked the clouds that were around last
night.Graham – Mirror lock up? How do you do that and what does it do?
reduce shake even more?? I was thinking more of shutter speeds and aperture
settings I always seem to get two moons or lots of glare never the happy medium :)Well on my 350d the mirror lockup in enabled through the Custom Function page.
I pulled this explanation from another forum where the same question was asked a while ago.
The mirrow flips up;
The aperture closes to the predetermined F-Stop;
The shutter opens for the predetermined amount of time;
The sensor is exposed to light;
The shutter closes;
The aperture returns to wide open for viewing;
The mirror returns to the viewing position.
The the first three items above happen BEFORE the sensor is even exposed, and each of them can contribute towards image unsharpness (owing to the vibrations it causes). What the mirror lockup function allows you to do is to first flip the mirror up, and set the aperture, but it wont expose the sensor yet to light. Only when you press the shutter release (with a remote cable hopefully) for the second time will it expose the sensor to light, it will stop, then the mirror closes again… all this helps reduce the vibrations, and is recommended when using a tripod for exposures longer than 1sI’m sure someone else can explain it better. This is just the explanation I have been using. If someone has a better description let me know.
There is a more detailed explaination here http://photo.net/learn/nature/mlu
EDIT – don’t forget a remote or using the self timer
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