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Does anybody know the answer to this ?
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Hi there,
If I an creating HDR images can someone tell me are these 3 techniques the same or do they produce different results.
1. Shoot 1 RAW and the create 3 jpegs from it +1, 0 and -1
2. Using the Auto Bracketing feature of a camera to take 1 shot which results in 3 different jpegs +1, 0 and -1
3. Setting the camera up on a Tripod and shooting an image, then manually bracketing to +1 and shooting another image and then manually bracketing to -1 and shooting an image.
If you were to take the 3 jpegs created using the 3 different techniques and create a HDR image from each technique would they all be the same ?
Thanks in advance.
No. 2 and 3 would be exactly the same. 2 being the better choice since your less likely to bump the camera during the process.
Method 1 is useable but there will be less dynamic range in that HDR than one made from 3 bracketed photos. so again no.2 is the better choice. Its handy if the idea of making a photo a HDR comes later and you only have one exposure. But for better results more than one exposure is always better. Even just 2 exposures, one average for landscape ect and then say, a -2 for the sky.
And depending on the dynamic range of the scene, you might want to increase the stops between the brackets to 2, ive never found 1 to usefull.
1. Shoot 1 RAW and the create 3 jpegs from it +1, 0 and -1
This has the potential to create a lot more digital noise leading to potentially poorer image quality as you’ll be opening up shadow areas when you over-expose.
I’d also recommend using TIFFs as opposed to JPGs for quality’s sake.
2. Using the Auto Bracketing feature of a camera to take 1 shot which results in 3 different jpegs +1, 0 and -1
3. Setting the camera up on a Tripod and shooting an image, then manually bracketing to +1 and shooting another image and then manually bracketing to -1 and shooting an image.Options 2 & 3 are more or less the same thing. Option 2 is the easier. Be careful if you use Option 3, be gentle when changing exposure settings not to shake the camera.
You can use option 3 if you want to create more than 3 exposures of the same scene.
This is better than Option 1 as it’ll result in less digital noise.
J
*Edit* I see that Rav already answered as I was typing this.
Thanks for the speedy response people. No. 2 It is so. I have been using number 1 for ages now because I never realised that my Nikon D50 had auto bracketing functionality and I very rarely have the tripod with me
Not sure what software you’re using but if it’s Photomatix be sure and get the very latest version from their website… it’s much better than older versions.
You should think of using a larger range of exposures; -2, 0, +2 with auto bracketing.
Even three exposures may not be enough – some say you may need 5 or more – you can check this by metering the brightest and darkest parts of the scene,
preferably with spot metering if your camera supports this.Many cameras don’t do 5 bracketed exposures, but you can set exposure compensation to -2,
take exposures bracketed at -2, 0, +2; and then set exposure comp to +2 and repeat the auto bracketing.
You then end up with 6 exposures; -4, -2, 0, 0, +2, +4 so simply delete one of the 0s. You’ll need a tripod for this,
as you have to reset the exposure comp.I personally use the tripod with a release and just (carefully) bracket the shutter 6-9 times . I combine them in PS and then take to Photomatix. I find you get alot more information and depth that way. Have fun…..
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