- This topic is empty.
400iso, HP5 vs. Neopan
-
I read on someone’s flickr that the film from Fuji offers more advantages compared to the Ilford one.
exactly what’s the difference between the two?
It’s a general question, I know, and probably it’s different if we use 120 or 135….
which one it’s best pushed 1600 iso?thanks!
I don’t use either,
but as the Neopan doesn’t exhibit reciprocity characteristics out to 2 mins,
it might have an advantage, depending on your chosen subject…A slow film with zero reciprocity effect rapidly becomes faster than a fast film
which needs exposure multiplication in low light, or when using small apertures,
and it’s much easier to meter-Regarding pushed film, you really have to take account of the film/developer combination…
and the choices are broad.
Speed enhancing developers such as Xtol or Microphen might be a better choice than the one you usually use…
maybe…mmmm now the story becomes complex…. ok then a speed enhancing developer will work as well on ‘nominally fast’ film such as the Delta 3200?
(I need to study more the reciprocity effect…….it’s not clear to me…)
All these Neopan threads…
Here’s a handy chart- which can be found at
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/chemistry/bwFilmProcessing/selecting.jhtml?pq-path=14053I’ve used T-Max, D76, Xtol, and I’ve just started using HC 110,
and the chart seems pretty accurate-Although the chart doesn’t mention speed enhancing,
Xtol should give an inbuilt 10% extra speed as standard,
and along with Microphen, and T-Max,
might be a good choice for push processing.The high shadow detail scores might give a bit of a clue…
If you want the convenience of a liquid developer, then Tmax will serve you well. Its a good developer for pushing films.
Peter, I was thinking of sticking with ID11/D76 for the FP4 and HP5, and giving microphen a go for the Delta 3200… maybe using it also for HP5 pushed to 1600…
but now I will consider your suggestion. thanks!
I really don’t like HP5, silly to say that I know, but I always seem to encounter some kind of disaster
every time I use it. So, I don’t, anymore.This is Neopan 400 (120) pushed to 1600. The print looks a little better.
For some reason, when I was making this print, the grain was really difficult to see, I’m not sure why that was.
Fuji, for some reason don’t make Neopan 1600 in 120 format,
but it is available in 135, I’ve used it quite a bit and I like it, not as grainy as you’d imagine.I’ve used quite a bit of Delta 3200 as well, both 120 and 135. I like it in bot formats, although the grain is much smoother from the 120.
Tri-x is supposed to be pretty nice when pushed too, but I’ve never tried it.
hey JTS would you mind telling me as well what developer you use with those film?
thank you :)
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
