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1st wedding soon – Can anyone do a crash course with me!
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Hi Folks,
The more I delve into this the more confused I get. I decide I like ‘manual’ for example and then discover a problem with it and have more luck with AV and visa versa. I don’t ever use much flash but it seems it’s a must for wedding photography.
I have a wedding coming up in a few weeks and I just don’t know what settings to be using, whether to use flash or not etc. Is there anyone out there who is experienced in wedding photography and all the pitfalls who would do a crash course with me? Obviously I will pay. I have done the IOP course before but it’s a group session and I think at this point I would benefit more from 1 on 1.
Anyone?Hi Maggie,
I’d recommend Ken Finnegan, if you’re anywhere near the North East.
I intend to get out to him myself for a crash course in Photoshop whenever I get the chance.
Good luck with the Wedding, you’ve bought some awesome gear and will need to be able to use instinctively on the day.
Make a list of the shots you need to get, consult with the couple before the big day.Don’t be tempted to try overly advanced techniques on the day, at the end of the day the couple will appreciate nicely exposed shots. Remember to constantly check your settings, eg if you’re using high ISO inside, remember to turn it back down when you go outside.
Think of a memonic to remember this and tape it on the back of your bodies.
Take a few minutes to check your settings between each location and to calm yourself down.
Have a plan B for all instances.
Try a few candids with the 70-200 (remember its a heavy lens to carry around all day).
Have you figured out what method you’re going to use to carry the two cameras on the day?
The 5 D is obviousley going to be your camera for inside the venue, does the venue allow flash photography during the ceremony?
Its usualy a good idea to get talking to the priest or celebrant before the ceremony just to find out about this and where he will allow you to stand.
Is there going to be someone with a video camera and light? You don’t want them in your shots.And finaly, enjoy the experience
Thanks for that post. That has really reassured me. I have a good idea of iso and how it works etc it’s just that I’m panicking a little about having to use flash. I’ve never really used it (avoid it!) and it just seems like I should be. With the wedding only weeks away I’m a little nervous about flash and the horrible effects of it (in my limited experience which obviously means I don’t use it properly). My husband is going to be on hand to carry the spare camera on the day. I have no problem getting good shots as in my eye isn’t so bad at all – it’s just getting the lighting etc right. Must check out your link photoemt…any more would be most welcome as time is running out..
if you are unsure of the flash – Dont use it … use a reflector to lift some shadows areas if there will be any or shoot in the shade , use a high iso in the church 1600 would be ok and then just remove noise in software …
Top tips- make a list of reminders for your husband to whisper in your ear. Stuff like when leaving the church remember to reset your iso speed . This will allow you to concentrate on the shots.. Have a shot list so you dont miss an important shot and tick them off as you go cant stress this enough ! Always shoot a wedding in RAW if you screw up you can fix it easier. have fun enjoy dont stress so much if the couple are expecting the best album in the world they will have to pay for the best photographer Did i say always shoot RAW if you want to use flash I can explain how to use fill flash to you Im here in westmeath not to far.. But just search fill flash and you will have a choice of endless tips on the subject…. simle guidelines over cast day 1-4 ratio real sunny 1-2 ratio both will give you a nice flash fill never shoot outdoors on full power will look ugly…Hi Maggie,
If you’re shooting candids or small groups and the ceiling is low enough and a light enough colour, you can use bounce flash. The result is much less harsh that direct flash. Adding a piece of white card (I use my business cards in a pinch) to the top of the flash to bounce a little direct light towards the subject works well too. I find the above method in the right room, with a little higher ISO, and the 70-200 can get some really nice candids. The 70-200 really helps because people don’t realise you’re taking their picture.
If you’re shooting large posed shots of the wedding party etc, a second slave flash off to the side can really help eliminate the harsh shadows you get from the on-camera flash. As for the ceremony, I’m fairly anti-flash. I think it lends a paparazzi feel to proceedings, and sometimes makes it feel like the ceremony exists for the camera, and not the two people getting married. When I was shooting weddings in the States, flash was never allowed. In fact, I remember one priest who got annoyed at Hasseblad mirror noise, so we had to use a Yashica I had laying around because it is a twin-lens reflex with no mirror. Anyway, I digress.
I haven’t done weddings in years, and never in the digital era, but this post makes me want to buy a 5D and get out there. It’s a lot of hard work, but it’s really nice to see people at their best, and surrounded by friends and family who wish them well.
-Doug
Hi Maggie, didn’t mean to panic you with that post. Damiend has some good points there re prompts from your husband and use of reflectors and flash.
Another method to try for fill flash if you’re not used to it is to use high speed sync on your canon flash and tweek it up or down with exposure compensation.
Try this link:neilvn.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/
for some tips on natural looking flash. Some of his stuff is technical but some is very easy to follow.
Charge up your batteries the night before, your 70-200 with IS running can be sore on batteries. Format your cards in the camera.
Carry a bottle of water with you to rehydrate.
Use an eazybalance or similar in your first test shot at a loacation (this means you can use the eyedropper tool in your software to correct the white balance post production).And yes, shoot in RAW.
Hi Guys,
Again, thanks for your replies. I still need any help I can get at the moment. I can’t seem to figure out this fill flash thing at all. I’m finding the following settings ok Manual 1/200 f2.8 with an ISO of 1600 indoors. What would you typically use in a church without flash and what would you typically use outside on a sunny day and on a dull day??Hi Maggie,
Just happened to come across this post.
I’d tend to look at it the other way, ie if you’re not happy with flash, don’t use it.
A wedding is no place to try and get to grips with something you’re not totally familiar with.
I don’t know what equipment you have (that you’re comfortable using obviously), but
If you have a fast prime or two, that would be a help if you don’t intend using flash.
I don’t like you asking “what would you typically use in a church without flash”
All churches are different, and by asking it implies you haven’t been to where the wedding is taking place. Have you?
A reccie beforehand of everywhere being photographed on the day is VITAL!
So, if you haven’t already done so, bring your camera and take some shots of where the bride & groom will be on the day,
and do it at the same time of day.
If it rains, where can I get shots? If it’s sunny, where will the sun be? If I set up the bridal party here, will the sun be in their eyes?
These are questions you need the answers to BEFORE the day.
Equipment isn’t as important as being totally at ease using the equipment you have.
Believe me, you most definitely don’t want to be thinking about equipment/settings. You’ll have enough on your plate trying to think five steps ahead all the time.
Don’t mean to frighten you, but you really should be out there taking pictures, so that you have a good idea about what settings to use on the day. Bring your husband, and use him as a model. All you need is a rough idea of how the lights going to be/what typical settings you’ll be using, on the day.
I presume you have a list of all the shots you’ll be required to take?
Basically, if you end up with a set of reasonably exposed/composed/reasonably at ease shots with all the important moments captured, you can do a lot to improve same in PP.
Good Luck
Regards
RogHi Rog,
Many thanks for your reply. I think I have just gotten myself into such a state now that I can’t think clearly at all. I thought I had someone on hand to go through fill flash and other stuff with me today but it fell through. I have spent the whole day on the internet trawling through stuff on it and still can’t get to grips with it – and I don’t consider myself stupid in any way. I’m usually happy snapping away (I have kids so am always taking photos of them) but since I started to panic I can’t seem to take a good photo at all. It’s either too bright or too dark!! My equipment is not the problem (I’ll have a 5d Mk II and 50d on the day with some fab lenses). I do have a list of photos I need to take on the day and have already met the bride to be. I am going out to the church and hotel this week also to have a look. I just can’t get myself out of the absolute tizzy I am in at the moment.
You said something about having a “fast prime”…what is that? Is it actually best to shoot in the shade or with the sun at my back (but then it’s in their eyes ahh!!). I think at this stage I need to give up on thoughts of using a flash….HELP!What you want is to cut out light coming from directly overhead or sunlight in the subjects line of vision. Think of open shade like under a tree canopy or near a window indoors so the light is coming from a sideways direction.
If it’s coming straight down like at midday, you get dark holes for eyes. If it’s in the subjects eyes they have to squint. Both are really bad for portraits, you want big, wide open eyes so move into the shade if it’s a bright sunny day. If you can’t find a suitable shady spot that isn’t cluttered and ugly, you can turn their backs to the sun and face into the light yourself. Take a a test shot and increase exposure if necessary to brighten up the faces.
A fast prime is a fixed length lens with a large max. aperture, like a 50mm 1.8 or 1.4.
The most important thing is to be as calm and chilled as you can, having the best expressions is usually better than the best exposures, people tend to tense up if the photographer seems stressed and unsure so no matter how hard it might seem to you just think ahead, plan well and where possible take a test shot or two to determine what exposure compensation you need to use.
Hi Jackie,
I think you’ve answered your own question. ” I think at this stage I need to give up on thoughts of using a flash”
If you’re not comfortable with it, forget it. Modern DSLR’s can cope with fairly high ISO very well.
I’d say the reason your pics are too light or too dark is because I think you mentioned in an earlier post about manual mode?
Forget about manual. It’s for photographers who know exactly what they want in a given situation,to override the camera settings.
Put your camera back into P mode and take some photos. Get your confidence back first.
After a while, change to Av mode.
This gives you control over the aperture. You select the aperture, the camera selects the shutter speed suitable for the available light.
I don’t have either 5D II or 50D, but I’m sure one if not both have auto ISO.
Like I said, get out to the venues concerned, bring your cameras & hubby, and take some shots to get your confidence back first.
Forget about trying to learn anything you don’t already know.
Remember, your P setting is for Program, but you can also look on it as P for your Panic button.
If all else fails, leave both cameras set to P, auto ISO, and just concentrate on composition.
You shouldn’t go too far wrong.Incidentally, a fast prime is a prime lens with a fast maximum aperture
ie: Canon 24mm f1.4 , 35mm f1.4, 50mm f1.2, 85mm f1.2 etc
They let more light onto the sensor, consequently you don’t need such a high ISO.
The dis-advantage is the’re expensive, and heavy.Unless you’re a gunslinger, shooting with the sun at your back isn’t advisable :wink:
Best to get the people you’re photographing in the shade if it’s a very bright day (stops squinting/blinking/screwed-up faces)
It doesn’t matter about you (unless the sun is causing flare on the lens)
Hope this helps.
Regards
RogThanks guys. Your posts have really helped. Confidence has taken a nose dive these last few days!! I’m not worried about getting the shots as I know I can take good one’s, it’s all the technical stuff that has me completely freaked out! I’ll take your advice tomorrow Rog and start shooting in P mode. Many thanks again. Any more advice, send it this way.
Maggie.Hi Maggie,
There’s loads of good stuff here. I might add a few things, probably already said, sorry if I confuse you! Some may disagree with these, they are just some thoughts off the top of my head.
– Use 2 ISO’s, 1 for inside, 1 for outside (play safe and go highish – software like Lightroom is great for reducing noise, also your camera performs very well at high ISO’s)
– Take practise shots of every setup/situation
– Review your pics on the screen every couple of shots, as quickly as you can. Even for the most important parts, you’re better off having one sharp shot than 10 blurry ones. Keep an eye on what shutter speeds you’re getting, this is displayed on the top left of the screen when reviewing pics.
– One shooting mode that might be useful to you is to use Shutter Priority (Tv). Set the shutter speed to, say, 1/200 and set ISO to auto. This could be a very good option for you, I’ve been tempted to try it myself but am too used to Aperture priority!
– Flash can be confusing at the best of times. One time I think it would be necessary is when the bride is coming up the aisle (the “handover”!) this is probably the trickiest part of the day for me. I would say; use P mode, flash on ETTL (auto). If you can, get someone to walk up the aisle before the ceremony at a moderate pace, fire off a few shots and see if they’re sharp.
– Whatever you do, make sure the camera is set to RAW. On the LCD screen on the back, it should say RAW in the bottom left. This won’t change so once it’s set, it’s set.
– In the very bottom right of the LCD, a number is displayed, this is the amount of space for shots remaining on the card. Keep an eye on this after you have been shooting for an hour or two.
– A Canon 24-70 is a great lens choice for a wedding, if you can get your hands on one I’d recommend it.
There’s loads more, but it’s not as daunting as it sounds. It’s practically impossible to get every shot you want, but if you get enough good ones spread throughout the day than that is the main thing :)
Thanks Brian for taking the time to write up all that and thanks again hugely to all who have replied. Myself and hubby are going to drive over to the church tomorrow and practice and then hit the hotel. I have been using P today and AV and the photo’s haven’t been the brightest. Can these be lightened ok in Photoshop? The lenses I have are as follows;
I have a 50mm lens, 15m fisheye, 70-200, 16-35mm so a good variety (All canon). Should I put the camera on Raw and small jpeg? This is the setting the guy in the shop said I should use? Keep the advice coming!!
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