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Macro fun
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All taken 8 Oct 2011.
Canon 7D & 100mm f/2.8 Macro (mki non IS)
All f/16, 0.8sec and IOS200 & Tripod.
Multiple shots in each image – Manually adjusted the focus point by a fraction for each shot – then focus stacked in Photoshop CS5 ( rose 21 shots, Orchid 18 and straws 3)click on images for larger versions.
thks for looking,
brenLovely work Brendan.
When you say 21 shots – did you merge 21 shots
and in what format were the files when to merged them?Gerry.
Excellent results Brendan. You’ve really mastered your stacking technique. Are you using a focus rail for these? Lighting & composition are spot on too. I do find the lighter bit on the RHS of #2 draws my eye away from the flower though, but that’s only a minor niggle. Keep up the good work.
That is a great set Brendan, your camera work and stacking technique are just perfect…………/Mikka
Thks M&M for your considered opinions.
Shutterlight – I find macro work vey intresting & technically challenging – these being only my 6th or 7th images. I got a loan of the Canon 100mm lens two weeks ago. I’m hardly one to give advise – but this has been my experience so far.
In my opinion – the main challenge is to get the right part of the subject in focus. ( eg. insect eyes)
Having a subject very close to a 100mm lens decreases the DOF substantially – and in all these instances – the DOF was 0.019cm – or 2/10 of a millimetre – as the subject was 12cm away – Canon 7D, 100mm lens and f/16.
This is if you want a frame filling exposure.
I could have used f/32 – giving me a great DOF – but – i would have 15″ exposures, noise, and in the case of most lenses the middle apertures give the best image quality. (f/8 – f/16)http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
Everything before and after that is out of focus.
To get around this – you either have to manually focus in a fraction in minute steps – or get a focus rail ( which seems the best option). I manually focused via the viewfinder, remote shutter cord and mirror lock up – trying to eliminate camera/lens shake.
The exposure was set mannualy at f/16 & 0.8sec – as the light source was a constant desk lamp.http://macro-photography.org/why_do_i_need_focusing_rails/index.php
each file was RAW – processed exactly the same as a set – saved out 16 as bit TIFF files – imported into photoshop using the Files – script “load files into stack” command , then selected all the layers in the toolbar – then EDIT ‘auto blend layers’ as a stack. Photoshop then choses the parts that is sharp from each exposure – blending them seamlessly.
A lot of work – and a huge file .
I’m not sure if there is another way around it – perhaps a full frame camera and the 180mm macro – and moving way back from the subject – then cropping in.
Now its off to find some a DVD, Olive Oil, water and a torch – watch this space!!
Ciao
bren
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