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1st Attempt at colour processing
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Hi,
I got out over the christmas and took a couple of pics up by Howth Summit and Howth Harbour on Fuji Pro 400H and developed in Tetenal
A couple of things I noticed,
1. The processing itself was not difficult at all just a little care required to keep the chemicals at the right tempeture
2. Dust and spec seem to be far more noticable on the negetive after scanning
3. I got some bad watermarks on the film but I did not use a wetting agent as I thought the stabiliser looked quite soapy and I thought there might have been some already in it, for the next roll I will use some.
4. There was a lot of processing required after scanning at least as much as digital.Workflow went something like this
Shot Fuji pro 400h > Mamiya RB67 50mm Sekor > Processed Tetenal C41 3 bath > Scanned Epson V500 > Photoshop > Contrast Mask > High Pass Sharpen > Lab mode colour push > Straighten image >Flip image (to correct scannning)>Clone out dust.
I certainly won’t be giving up on colour processing but at the moment digital for colour and B/W for film but I will give it a couple of more rolls
Comments and suggest would be extremely welcome.
Here Are some of the images
The Morning was so clear here you could see the outline of mountains in Wales
well done cramp,
thats great to know that people are doing this by hand!
i definitly want to try this some time.
the results look really good.
alan
Yes, well done-
did you precess in a small tank?
use a water jacket to maintain temperature?The colour looks a little funny, if I was to be honest,
like you’ve pushed the saturation up a bit digitally, or the contrast-
did the film turn out to be quite low contrast?I reckon I’m going to have to bite the bullet and do something like this myself soon…
I’ve been reading up on it a bit, seems like it’s no harm to increase the blix time for modern emulsions-
all the silver must be bleached out if the neg is not to look grainy-How do the negs themselves look?
Again, well done-
Hi I processed them in a small Patterson tank, I did think they lacked saturation so I did increase the colour adjusting the curves in LAB colour mode.
I maintained the tempeture by filling the kitchen sink with warm water an monitoring the tempeture,
Thanks for the comments
Marc
Must try that myself some time. I always thought colour was a no-go area on account of the temperature control required, but the water bath sink sounds OK. Why flip the scans? Can’t you scan the negs other way up?
Alex.Hi Alex,
It realy isn’t any more difficult than BW and I the temps are easy enough to keep in line, I warmed up the tank/film before the first bath, the only thing I would say I would like to have seen how the negative would have come out from a lab.
Re the flipping, Epson recommend scanning with the emulsion facing down to the scanner which result in mirrored image
Go do it the more of us who do the more we can compare results the kit only costs a few euros but buy a digital thermometer
Regards,
Marc
Is that a flatbed scanner? I’ve got an Epson Perfection 3490 Photo scanner (had a better one, smashed it. Made a roll-out shelf for it. When I rolled it in, the shelf stopped and the scanner kept on going, fell off the back of the shelf and fell about 2 feet onto the tiles. Goodbye scanner.) Both these use a negative carrier which you slide the negs into and they get lit from above by a fluorescent tube in the lid. There’s instructions on the neg carrier as to what way up to place the negs. The one I’m using now doesn’t have a carrier for 120s, so I’m thinking of having a go at scanning them in the same way as any old document to see how they go.
Alex.cramp wrote:
Hi Alex,
It realy isn’t any more difficult than BW and I the temps are easy enough to keep in line, I warmed up the tank/film before the first bath, the only thing I would say I would like to have seen how the negative would have come out from a lab.
I just bought some chemistry, the Fuji Hunt stuff-
How did you warm up the reels and tank?
and how did you keep the temperature at the right level-
did you use a heater, or is it simply a matter of getting there and hoping for the best?Still have to put a few other things together before I process-
digital thermometer maybe…I have one of these for sale if you want it Joseph. You can have it for €20 and it hasn’t been used.
http://www.rhdesigns.co.uk/darkroom/html/thermometer.html” onclick=”window.open(this.href);return false;
Looks good Peter-
if that includes postage, I’ll paypal you now…
drop me a line with your email-
PM sent.
I actually have two of these so if any one else wants the second one let me know.
Hi Marc. A very good 1st attempt at colour processing. I’d agree the developing colour film is almost as easy as B&W, but the temperature control needs to be more accurate (as does the timing). I never really had any problems controlling the temperatures.
First I would heat the room to a comfortable working temperature. Then I would prep a basin of hot water to immerse the tank in to prevent the temperature from falling below the required working temperature while developing. I would pour some hot water into the tank to warm it before development too.
I would disagree with using digital thermometers though, as there can be several degrees in the difference of them and mercury thermometers unless they are of high quality & can be calibrated, even though they can be easier to read. I would recommend digital timers though.
My problems usually arose during the print development stage, having to think in reverse was a bit of a pain, but not such a problem with slides. :D Keep it up. You’ve got a great 1st result. Well doneSorry I missed some of these replies;
JB7
Re preheating the film and tank I heated it up with warm water as per the instructions
miki g
Thanks for the thermometer info must check mine out I have bothI going to give this a try very soon!
Re the temperature When I am dev’ng my B+W I fill the
kitchen sink with 20 degree water and have the boiling
kettle on standby to plop a dash of hot water in to boost the
temp back up to 20 if it falls! agricultural i know but I have
it down pretty well now!Is there any more finer details available on temp, time, chemicals
to use?depending on what film I devellop how do I know what time? does it
vary from film to film with same ISO?JB7 where did you get the chemistry?
aaahhhhh so many questions
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