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Camera Shake
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Is there anything else I can try to eliminate camera shake for sharper images.
For example in the attached image, I used a manfrotto tripod, a remote control shutter release, a Nikon 50mm f1.8 lens at f8.
I use a Nikon D70, so unfortunately can’t lock the mirror up and think this might be the problem.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Mark
I’m not sure what I’m looking at here-
is this a crop?And how long was the exposure?
How long is the lens?
There are many different Manfrotto tripods-
if it’s anything like the one Pallotron showed me last week,
which he got out of a Christmas Cracker,
then I might look to that, and the head, and check there for rigidity first-Long lenses will amplify the effect of shake, as will any weak links in the support system-
probably much more than mirror slap in a D70-well this picture of clouds and stars looks to be “camera shake” maybe because of a long exposure (post the EXIF date) – the clouds seem to shake or the stars because of a natural rotation of the earth.
if it wasnt a long exposure, as jb said – it could be your focal lenght (the longer the focal lenght the more shake you are going to get off the longer end) or just a simple shake while exposing.
give us a bit more detail on what you were doing etc.
jb7 wrote:
There are many different Manfrotto tripods-
if it’s anything like the one Pallotron showed me last week,
which he got out of a Christmas Cracker,:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :) :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Mirror lock up is vital when using a big tele lens as all the weight most likely
is on the lens and the front end too and when that mirrir slaps up there is vibration
and again with the big unbalanced lenses it can create a nice bit of shake!I know from using bigger Canon L glass there is usually a lens collar which allows
the tripod to be attached to the lens and so balancing the equipment.A good heavy sturdy or carbon fiber tripod is essential too.
Sorry for the lack of details. Hopefully this is all the relevant info
Camera: Nikon D70
Tripod: Manfrotto 190XPROB legs and 460MG Head
File size & PP: 6mp RAW file uncropped with a slight levels adj to blacken the sky
Lens: Nikon 50mm f1.8 prime (very small & light lens)
Focal Length: 50mm
Camera Settings: 6 sec at f1.8, ISO 200I expected the clouds to blur with the 6 sec exposure but there shouldn’t be any rotation in the stars at that shutter speed.
Thanks
Mark
Doesn’t look like there’s loads of camera shake in this. It looks like the movement of the clouds is what you’re complaining about here.
I could be wrong.
Mark N wrote:
Sorry for the lack of details. Hopefully this is all the relevant info
Camera: Nikon D70
Tripod: Manfrotto 190XPROB legs and 460MG Head
File size & PP: 6mp RAW file uncropped with a slight levels adj to blacken the sky
Lens: Nikon 50mm f1.8 prime (very small & light lens)
Focal Length: 50mm
Camera Settings: 6 sec at f1.8, ISO 200I expected the clouds to blur with the 6 sec exposure but there shouldn’t be any rotation in the stars at that shutter speed.
Thanks
Mark
that 6 seconds is what is causing the clouds to shift, the stars actually dont look like they are streaking on my monitor anyway.
you should close up ur aperture and try an a few min exposures, you get some lovley effects, light pollution can be a problem though – and although clear tonight – its feckin cold!
You can see the movement I’m talking about in this 200% crop. The brightest object is Jupiter and it’s clearly out of shape. The other stars don’t look as sharp to me as I’d like. Am I being too picky.
Mark
The movement is horizontal-
and mirror slap might be more likely to produce a vertical motion.
The stars are moving, although not far, relatively, in six seconds-
and maybe not in that direction either-The shape of Jupiter is interesting-
it looks a bit like a comet-
I wonder if it might be coma?
though the axis looks odd-ƒ/1.8- that’s good performance for wide open
though stopping down just a little might improve it a lot-
maybe down to ƒ/4 or so-The D70 has quite good high iso performance,
so maybe stopping it down and winding the iso up might improve the optical performanc,
without degrading the image by adding too much noise-If the platform is stable, that is-
anyway, just thinking out loud, more or less…
No expert by any means on this type of photography, but imagine at your exposure the stars are over-exposed, and you’re seeing something like sensor blooming.
As I say, I’m no expert is this typr of photography, and given that astro photography is it’s own involved, problematic world (from what I can see), would recommend reading up on the astro-photography forums out there,
Damien
i think whats wrong is your exposure time is too long at 8 seconds
it is long enough to pick up the speed of our rotation at 1000kmph !I tried shooting the moon a couple of years back and fount even at
1/30th of a second or so I only got middling results, . . . must try
and post a sample with the exif data!Though these stars aren’t 1000kmph streaks of light, but almost like two dots which would indicate shake.
I probably need to do a bit more research into photographing stars. But I still wouldn’t be satisfied I’m getting the sharpest results, at slower shutter speeds, with my current set up.
Maybe I’m just trying to convince myself to get a new camera (with mirror lock up).
Thanks for the replys and suggestions.
Mark
I may be wrong, but I think 3 seconds is about the longest exposure you can use before star trails begin to appear. Shoot several shorter exposures and combine them using the free download “Registax”.
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