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Connaught Vs Newcastle
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Connaught 16
Newcastle 13Some stuff from the connaught vs newcastle game…I am still not perfect with the camera settings but getting there i hope…
More on my flickr page…all comments appericated
There very dark, what iso speed where you using? Can’t see what set up you have so can’t offer much other than that. Good expressions in number 3.
Ken
Working in very hard condition’s,i see you had iso at 1600,fast enough shutter speed at 1/250,the first and the last two are good,the second a wee bit blurry,i take it you are panning with these action shot’s?
Sean.
yeah rammed the iso up to the last, I am still trying to master panning,the pro beside me has a EOS 1D with a 600 USM, felt like a proper tool with my sigma lens and 40d.
think I will use the tripod more,didnt use it on this shoot, the light is a pain the trade off with a 1600 ISO and 1/250 is brutal, was tryin slower speeds but just getting pure blur.mono wrote:
yeah rammed the iso up to the last, I am still trying to master panning,the pro beside me has a EOS 1D with a 600 USM, felt like a proper tool with my sigma lens and 40d.
think I will use the tripod more,didnt use it on this shoot, the light is a pain the trade off with a 1600 ISO and 1/250 is brutal, was tryin slower speeds but just getting pure blur.Dont use a tripod,a mono pod is want you want mono.And the 40d and sigma lense is more than capable of taking good shot’s,so dont be thinking like that.you should be able to get shot’s at slower speeds aswell.A wee thing i learned,wheni was panning at the start,i was following the subject but was taking about 6 snaps in a row,and they were blurred,then i just took 1 and followed through and they were better.I think if you keep snapping it must upset the panning process,i hope this makes sense,i’m no go at explaining thing’s.well it worked for me any way.Hope this help’s
Sean.
Some comments, for what they’re worth – forget panning. Set your camera for a shutter speed greater than 1/400.
I have a 20D with 70-200mm f/2.8 IS L, and a 40D with 300mm f/2.8 IS L.
I seldom use IS, and try to get 1/500 shutter speed, or 1/400 if the light is bad. I’ll post a Leinster V Edinburgh thread, just for some comparisons.
I can see the struggle behind these photos.. I can’t shoot sports even at daylight, so I take these as a very good effort. What struck me is the amazing detail at iso 1600. Keep on going and you’ll start getting the good results, I’m sure.
paul wrote:
Some comments, for what they’re worth – forget panning. Set your camera for a shutter speed greater than 1/400.
I have a 20D with 70-200mm f/2.8 IS L, and a 40D with 300mm f/2.8 IS L.
I seldom use IS, and try to get 1/500 shutter speed, or 1/400 if the light is bad. I’ll post a Leinster V Edinburgh thread, just for some comparisons.
that’s the problem,he could not get the shutter speed due to light.I’m all with you when you can get high shutter speeds,but if not panning is the only option i think.
By the way,two lovely lenses.would love the 300 f2.8.
Sean.
I’m not sure what lens you used there. So, can’t comment on what it can do, but you should have at least been able to get 1/350 out of the 40D at ISO 1600, even using an f/5.6 lens. I’ve used the 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 with ISO 1600 and been able to get a 1/400 under the floodlights at the RDS.
Sometimes you do have to push the camera a little. If you shoot raw, then you can have an extra two stops when processing the raw file.
It never hurts to try, and just see what you can get. A dark image is much better than a blurred image, IMHO.
paul wrote:
Sometimes you do have to push the camera a little. If you shoot raw, then you can have an extra two stops when processing the raw file.
It never hurts to try, and just see what you can get. A dark image is much better than a blurred image, IMHO.
Definitely.
At least you can bring the exposure up a little afterwards, whereas you can’t save a blurred shot.
A simple tip to avoid camera shake even with handheld shots; try to get your shutter speed to double
your focal length. For instance, my Olympus has a crop factor of 2X, so my 200mm lens is the equivalent
of a 400mm lens on a 35mm camera. So at full extension, my optimum shutter speed for avoiding shaking
or blurring is actually 1/800 sec or above.
Set your camera to Shutter Priority, set the speed you want, then adjust aperture and ISO settings until you
can get as close to the exposure you want, and shoot in RAW. As Paul mentioned, a little dark is preferable
to a blurred unuseable shot…Rob.
Hi
I have taken my 400D and Canon 70-300mm F4 – 5.6 to thelast few munster games i’ve been too. Im hoping to get a kick ass lense shortly but until then im making do.
Im a beginner really so please feel free to suggest to me. I have been using the TV setting and aimimg for a minimum speed of 1/250. Im nearly alwasy at ISO1600.
I guess to tottally freeze the action I should be looking for 1/400 should I. Should I use the Aperure priority setting rather than the time priority setting. When I set my speed the aperture number flashes , im assuming this means that the picture will be under exposed?????? So i slow down the shutter speed. Am I doing write? Im hoping to get access to pitch side in the future to perfect my technique.
Also could one use a higher shutter speed giving an under exposed shot but knock up the exposure compensation a little???? Does this effect picture quality?
some okay results there .. the lighting in the sportgrounds is atrocious probably the worst I’ve had to deal with at a match in ireland.
I will say Border Reivers grounds were even worse, and Stradey Park in wales is about on a par with the sportgrounds, though with less excuse.
munsterman28 wrote:
Im a beginner really so please feel free to suggest to me. I have been using the TV setting and aimimg for a minimum speed of 1/250. Im nearly alwasy at ISO1600.
I guess to tottally freeze the action I should be looking for 1/400 should I. Should I use the Aperure priority setting rather than the time priority setting. When I set my speed the aperture number flashes , im assuming this means that the picture will be under exposed?????? So i slow down the shutter speed. Am I doing write?
Also could one use a higher shutter speed giving an under exposed shot but knock up the exposure compensation a little???? Does this effect picture quality?
Ok, from my experience, you want a shutter speed that is at least 1/400 to stop the action.
For sport, I use Tv (Shutter priority). You will see the aperture number flash if your speed is too fast, and your image may be slightly under exposed. But, a dark image is better than a blurred image. Just because the number blinks doesn’t mean that the image isn’t usable. In fact, most of my shots would have the aperture number flashing.
Knocking up the exposure compensation will not make it any better, in fact, it may even darken the image a bit more.
Trial and error is the only way, but you really want a shutter speed greater than 1/400.
Check out my FlickR images, and the EXIF if you think it will be of help.
a mono pod will help defo. and if you think the light there was bad u should see how bad the light is at eircom league grounds around the country
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