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Develop C-41 @ Home
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I have been developing C-41 at home for about 18 months.
I have previously used the DIGIBASE C-41 Kit, below is a note on my
experience using the TETENAL C-41 kit.The Tetenal kit is a 3 step process, [1] Developer [2] Bleach/Fix [3] Stabilizer
The 1L kit is easy to mix and is good for between 12 and 16 rolls of 120 format film,
that works out at about €2.00 per roll for 14 rolls.
I purchased the kit from http://www.thephotoshop.ie/index.php?route=product/product&path=70&product_id=264 €27.89.
[1 – developer]
I decided to develop 2 rolls of expired Fuji NPS160 [220] a recommended temperature of 36 degrees C. for 8 minutes,
but I found it difficult to maintain that temperature, and the actual temperature fluctuated from 34C to 35C so I added 2
minutes to the development time.[2 – bleach/fix]
The bleach/fix chemicalsagain were used at a temperature of 35C so instead of the 6 minutes for 36C I added an extra minute.[rinse]
I rinsed the films for the recommended 6 minutes[3- stabilizer]
The recommended time for the stabilizer is 1 minute.So the experience was good, its a simple process, once you get the time and temperature balanced correctly the results are
very good.Sample images below are straight scans and unprocessed.
Fujica GW690 with Fuji NPS160 220 format expired using Sunny16 rule for exposure.
Mamiya 645 Super + Sekor 45mm f2.8 with Fuji NPS160 220 format expired using Sunny16 rule for exposure.
thanks for posting this!
when you say the temp fluctuated did you raise it somehow? in a water bath?
Just did some C-41 last Friday for the first time.. I also used the tetenal kit which I too got from http://www.thephotoshop.ie.. Having developed B&W I figured I’d give C-41 a go. Developed 3 rolls of expired Kodak cheapy just to see if I would get anything. As you said very simple to mix up and very straight forward and I got decent neg’s…
I developed for 3 1/4 min’s at 38 degree’s C
Blix for 4 mins at 38 degree’s C
Rinse for 6 minutes
etc…Was no harder than B&W and since I did the development a little hotter is was a fairly quick process, having a water bath at the right temp and keeping it there wasn’t a real problem since my development times were short..
This weekend I have 3 rolls of Ektar 100 to develop and some portra 160 120 so that should be a good test for me.
Isabella, yup kitchen sink and boiled water in the kettle ready to increase the temperature.
johnhig, yea its easy all right, good to know others are doing this!
After developing C-41 now and seeing how simple it is I’ll probably end up shooting allot of Ektar 100 and Portra 160 & 400.. Next to try is E-6, have some velvia 50 to develop so that’ll be interesting to see..
Aoluain, and tip or tricks you can share with the C-41 developing.
John
cool! i would love to try E-6 myself, i have 4 rolls of 120 Kodak eir aerochrome in the freezer waiting to be exposed and developed!
I have just been in contact with thephotoshop.ie and the new reduced price of the tetenal kit is €22.64 . . .
even more of a reason to try developing at home !
And it’s not that hard to do C-41, nice price on that kit.
Aoluain, I developed some E6 recently and the 3 bath kit is pretty much the same process as the C41.. Water bath etc.. About as hard to do as E6, next to try is the 6 bath E6 process.
you go girl !
you will enjoy it!
if you need any help you know what to do!
aoluain wrote:
6 bath ?
what is the advantage?
when I read more about it I’ll let ya know, what I do know is the chemicals aren’t mixed. Bleach and Fixer instead of Blix.. so more steps but it’s meant to be better..
Got me a Jobo CPE2 recently and it’s great for C-41 and E-6. Easy to keep the bath at the right temp plus heat the chemicals too..
so, chems arrived!!! shot a roll of velvia 50 trans today (an experiment also, never shot it before!)
the instructions with the chems look a little intimidating! they say stages 1 and 2 need to be done in total darkness? does this mean the darkness inside the tank (which i would consider self evident!) or does one have to do it with the lights off? seems silly now that i ask….
also do you guys use metal tanks and reels? i only have a plastic jobo tank and reel. TBH I’m not too afraid to sacrifice it to color only…
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