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How many stops for frost
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Hi everyone
Anyone got advice for shooting frost, tried 1 stop and still burnt out, using film need to get it right at the start, also used ilford infra red during summer, wasted a lot of it by wrong exposure, anyone used it?, should I overexpose by 2 stops or more?, advice please, sick of wasting film and dont want digital ever. :? :? :?
I think you’ll need to give more information:
Tried 1 stop…over exposed or underexposed?
“Burnt out” suggests over exposed so why over expose by 2 stops?
How are you metering?Hi
I was over & under exposing by one stop, even under exposing the image seemed to make it too bright, metering was off a grey card, the frost was probally brighter than I thought, should I increase the shutter speed by 1 & 2 stops, couldn’t really find a mid tone anywhere to take a reading off, if it’s going to be a cold winter dont want to waste a lot of film and cost in photo labs.
Are you using through-the-lens metering (in the camera) or a separate (external) light meter?
Are you metering off a grey card held close but shooting an image further away, e.g. a landscape?
Hi
I’m metering for a landscape and using the metering throught the camera, centre weight metering I think, I was using a nd grad filter for the sky just before sunrise, 2 stop I think, the foreground was heather in a bog, almost no colour, small bits of turf here and there, maybe the card was too close to me when I took the reading, could this be the problem, what do you take the reading off if this is the case.
Interested to hear other views, but I would:
1. Compose the shot
2. Set up the camera with filters, etc.
3. Chose the metering method, usually evaluative
4. Set bracketing (if required) +/- 1 or 2 stops depending on conditions
5. Take the shotI suppose, for landscapes, I trust the metering (evaluative in most cases). You could use centre-weighted metering on the key aspect of the landscape (and then recompose), but you risk over-or under-exposing other areas.
I find that evaluative metering on modern cameras is usually pretty accurate.
I can’t understand why you are metering off a grey card …
Can you post sample pictures?
Do you use Neutral Grad filters?
What filter were you using on the infrared, also what developer and times were being used? Ilford SFX film?
M
Hi
I did a course in the spring and was told that the grey card results would solve exposure problems, dont always use it, I’ll have to resort to trusting the camera or buying a light meter, as for IR film, i use a cokin filter 007 i think, i sent them away to be developed and enlarged them myself in my own dark room, just learning what this type of photography is all about, sunny day with clouds, lots of green grass and leaves and a building in the backround, will try again by over exposing by 2 stops next time what do you think (martin)
I’m no expert, but I would use spot metering from the grey card in the same lighting as the subject and then lock the exposure settings and then compose the shot.
Great now I lost, should I face the grey card into the light so that the max ammount of light hits it, I’ll have to try a bit of everything, I’ll try and get a scan of an image and post it up on line, time for a drop of brandy.
redfox wrote:
Hi
I did a course in the spring and was told that the grey card results would solve exposure problems, dont always use it, I’ll have to resort to trusting the camera or buying a light meter, as for IR film, i use a cokin filter 007 i think, i sent them away to be developed and enlarged them myself in my own dark room, just learning what this type of photography is all about, sunny day with clouds, lots of green grass and leaves and a building in the backround, will try again by over exposing by 2 stops next time what do you think (martin)
What ISO are you rating the film at? What film is it?
If its Ilford SFX, take a few shots. Rate the light meter at ISO 6,12, 25 & 50. If your sending the film out for development it all depends on the developer and time they are using for the film. I would try the above ISO’s, basically bracket to find out which ISO works best with whatever they are deving the film in…. Even contact them and ask them what ISO you should be using with a 007 filter….
I would guess though that either ISO 12 or 25 will be the correct ones….
M
Sorry Redfox, I should’ve said to face the grey card towards the area that you will be shooting from. The light from the grey card should be the same as your subject. Doing this will give a proper exposure for your subject, but the sky may be over exposed and therefore a graduated ND filter would help to correct this.
Thanks MIKI, I’ll try a few tests and instead of being lazy I’ll take notes and see how I get on.
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