- This topic is empty.
how to get sharper shot.
-
just trying to find out what im doing wrong think my idear of shoting is rite but my shot are not comeing out as sharp as i want. am useing a cannon 400d with a 18/55 lens and have a tripod for when am shooting lanscape..most of the time shoting at f16. for landscape.
im getting out there and shoting. and have watch loads off videos on youtube but something isnt write. will it just come or am i doing something wrong.
this is some off mine just to let you see what im doing.
any help would be great. small or big.
thanks stevie..
Well Stevie,
I ain’t an expert but I shot a good few road racing events last year and I’d say that the 18-55 kit lense will not be helping you.
In my experience for the likes of your sidecar shot stick the camera into TV and select an appropriate shutter speed, with my 70-200 that could be anywhere between 1/160 and 1/250 depending on the distance to the subject and how fast they are moving. Pan with the subject and don’t stop when you take the shot, follow the subject past. Just like shootin clay pigeons. :) Look at the screen and if you need to adjust the shutter speed. You should get a good sharp subject and a blurry background.
For the Dears leap kinda stuff you could be lookin at a shutter speed of 1/1000th or 1/1250th at least to stop the subject.
For the landscape stuff. I’m less versed in but anywhere around f8 or f11 should be the sweet spot for most lenses, focus about 1/3 of the way into the frame and try to use the rule of thirds for horizons and natural breaks. A horision bang in the middle doesn’t usually work.
It may seem like dummies stuff to some nut I had no clue where to start either.
John.
Could be just down to your lens, 18-55 is usually kit lens?? Probably not the sharpest lens
to start with, do you use autofocus? In low light which your landscape samples are it may
be down to camera shake, sometimes just pressing the shutter can make tiny vibrations
and will be picked up in the shot, either a remote release or use the timer on the camera
see if that makes a difference.Then it is just down to practise to get the look you want, keep going and keep posting! :)
after Jenny ,
the first question is :
is it kit lens with IS or without IS, (kit without IS is a probably the worst lens ever made by canon), so resol is , dump this lens and buy simple 50mm F/1.8 (probably the cheapest lens ever made by canon ;-) ;-) ) but You will see biiiiiiiig differeces :-)
chris
yea the lens is just a kit lens. just a efs 18/55 no (is) so that wont help much then?. next upgrade was going to be a new lens. and jenny been trying a bit off both auto and manual focusing with the self time being used. was also told before i hit the sutter button after focusing to turn auto focus off as somethimes when you hit it it could throw itself of if something moves. would this help? thanks for this help will try everything yous tell me.
stevie
Hi Stevie,
I would be inclined to use manual focus when using the timer, as you said it can try to
refocus slightly if on auto, I dont think your technique has any problems it is down to
the lens, take Chris’s advice and pick up a 50mm. :)there is more defects of kit lens (non is)
– max resolution 30 mtf at 50mm at f=8 (for prime 50mm 1.8 is 40mtf at f=5.6 !!!)
so better resolution means more chance to get good sharpness :-)
– focusing ring is a joke :-)
– Chromatic aberration
– Distortion on 18mm :-) nearly fisheye :-)IMO is much better to buy 50mm for the 80 – 110 euro and be happy , and no more stress like: Where is my sharpness ??
chris
thanks guys this explains why sometimes i feel my pictures aren’t sharp..
i presume that this also applies to kit lenses 70 – 210? whit this lense i also find lots of chromatic aberration specially at full zoom
another question.. what does mtf stands for?
thankswhich 70-210 ???
i’ve got 70-210 f4 , and this is a fantastic sharp lens (old but still very good, and very cheap) the one defect of this lens (maybe only my model) is that she like very much electricity :-) ,chris
sorry, its a kit lens that i got with my old film minolta dynax 505. the kit came with 35 – 70mm f3.5 – f.5-6 and 70-210 f4.5 – f.5.6
without tripod i feel that the result is not the best.
i also have sony 18 – 55 f3.5 – 5.6 (another kit) and as you have said before the best of all (that i have) is the 50mm f1.8tsergairl wrote:
after Jenny ,
the first question is :
is it kit lens with IS or without IS, (kit without IS is a probably the worst lens ever made by canon), so resol is , dump this lens and buy simple 50mm F/1.8 (probably the cheapest lens ever made by canon ;-) ;-) ) but You will see biiiiiiiig differeces :-)
chris
Let me remind you that Stevie is interested in a landscape photography not in a portrait which 50mm is the best. For landscape photography I would recommend Tamron AF 17-50mm F2.8 XR Di II (Canon mount). This lens is wide and very sharp. You can get it for €275.
Another thing about your pictures, Stevie, the first one, your tree is out of focus. Another prob is that lens has no IS so your pictures is little bit of blur. To avoid blur while you pressing shutter button, use remote control or 2sec. self-timer.
Good luck
Maxone wrote:
Another thing about your pictures, Stevie, the first one, your tree is out of focus. Another prob is that lens has no IS so your pictures is little bit of blur. To avoid blur while you pressing shutter button, use remote control or 2sec. self-timer.
Good luck
yea have been useing a self timer. going to invest in a new lens and get ride off this kit lens. well maybe keep it and when i upgrade my camera down the line give it away with it :)
so time to save some ££ getmyself a new bit off kit!
clami79 wrote:
what does mtf stands for?
thanksWhat is it on? Lens, camera, settings???
Hi All
MTF – Modulation Transfer Function
i think this link should clarify everythink :-) :
http://www.imatest.com/docs/sharpness.html” onclick=”window.open(this.href);return false;
regards
Chris
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
