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Infra red filter Hoya R72
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Hi all,
Has anyone successfully used a Hoya R72 filter with an unconverted digital SLR? I really like infra red photography and would love to give it a go but don’t want to convert my canon20D. Is it possible to still take IR photos with the above filter with a 20D. I know there would be really long exposure times but I don’t mind that if it works.
Secondly, if it is possible (I’ve read up a few sites some say it is some say it isn’t so I’m a little confused!!), does anyone know if they’re stocked in any of the camera shops in dublin or would I have to order on-line.
thanks
sharonAn unconverted camera needs an IR filter…a converted camera doesn’t unless it’s only the IR filter (gets confusing, but the filter that blocks IR light) is removed. The older the camera, the shorter the exposure time given the progression with cameras. I use a Sony A100 & A700 – the A100 works out aboout 10 stops extra requirement with an IR72 filter, the A700…several days if I were to try it.
I don’t know anything about IR film though and as for getting filters in this country, I’m equally fathomed.Alan.
Has anyone successfully used a Hoya R72 filter with an unconverted digital SLR?
Yes
Is it possible to still take IR photos with the above filter with a 20D.
Yes
Secondly, if it is possible (I’ve read up a few sites some say it is some say it isn’t so I’m a little confused!!), does anyone know if they’re stocked in any of the camera shops in dublin or would I have to order on-line.
Not sure – But definetly available online e.g. eBay.co.uk
I’m no expert but I managed to get a Kood R72 working with reasonable enough results.
In a nutshell:
* Buy filter.
* Attached to camera.
* Create a Custom White Balance by taking a photo of a patch of grass on a bright sunny day (with the filter on) You’ll know that your White Balance photo is correct when the histogram looks fairly evenly balanced and sits nicely around the centre of the X axis
* Set your camera to use the Custom White Balance.
* You’ll probably have to compose without the filter on the camera (manual focus) and put it on once you have manually composed the shot. You’ll also have to play around in Manual mode to figure out what the best exposure time is for your shots. It can vary based on the camera model. The 20D should be well suited as it is an older Canon model and the built in IR filter shouldn’t be as good as the equivalent in newer cameras.
* Finally, process your images. You can convert to B&W or there’s another route to retain some of the colour. I’ll dig up the link this evening and post.
This all takes a while to get used to… and by the time you get your head around it you’ll be fed up with IR via the filter route… at least I was… cos exposure times can be very long which means that it picks up on leaves shaking in the wind etc. My flirt with IR lasted one weekend.
Still… it is fun, interesting and slightly different.
J
Thanks all for the info, :D looks like I’ll be ordering the filter and giving it a go. Rang around all the shops yesterday, only place that had them was conns but not in the size I need so onlines the way to go by the looks of it.
Great link Alan, some very useful information on it.
sharon
Slightly OT, but I found this by accident at St Elsewhere’s – reviews of reviews of Olympus 520.
If you are interested, check out the link to the review
>
http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews_olympus_e520_2.php
>
> It says that the e-520 is very suitable for IR. Does the live view
> boost and 10x magnification for manual focusing give this cam a leg
> up for IR over Canon and Nikon?I absolutely love IR photography.
I use PS3 EXTENDED where there is a B+W IR conversion in the channel mixer, which gives good results.
http://www.alanlambephotography.com/Gallery7.htm
the images on the above page were all taken digitally except INIS OIRR and BLACK GATES were IR film, just to give you a feel
for digitally produced ir images.IR mostly works on really bright sunny days with clear skies where it can pick up the Photosyntesis?
in the plant life so you get great contrast between the blue sky, rendered as black or very dark
and the organic life as white, so in my opinion it is suited to a particular type
of subject.I have an r72 filter i got from the usual place . . . e-bay, but you could if you have a polarising
filter try again on a very bright day polarising a shot convert it to black and white and trick around
with the contrast to give you a feel for the EFFECT. the sky should come out really dark
and the grass or whatever really bright.Anyway just a thought!
Alan
Brilliant shots alan!! very confidence inspiring, I’m off to do some online shopping. :D
I have used a polariser and the channel mixer before and got a pretty good IR effect in PS CS but it made the picture very noisy despite using ISO 100. Will see how I get on when the filter arrives.I’ll be sure to post up my first attempts! Thanks for all the help
sharon
Thanks Sharon,
I have used ILFORD SFX400 before and they come out very grainy too even so
for a 400 rated film it is quite noisy.I have noticed that too in CS it does generate a lot of noise.
Best of luck
A
aoluain wrote:
I have used ILFORD SFX400 before and they come out very grainy too even so
for a 400 rated film it is quite noisy.
AFrom looking at the two SFX pictures it looks to me like you used the wrong film developer. I got similar results using plain Rodinal which I know now not to use. Haven’t shot much SFX but developers like T-MAX, Rollei RHS, Rodinal Special will possibly give better results from a grain point of view, you really need to experiment with a few developers and dilutions….
M
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