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Interfit EX150 Home studio
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Got this home studio set as a christmas present.Just had a bit of time to open it up today and try out a few shots.More to it than meets the eye. Set up the 2 lights about 45 degrees to a still life , set the lightmeter to ISO 100 and speed 1/125 sec (Sekonic L308s) and took a test . Read f11 set the camera to manual and set 1/125 sec f11 ISO100 and everything was black. adjusted the camera spped down as far as 1/8 sec and it worked better, as in I could see the still life came out ok .Had the lights on 1/2 power and was using the ST-E2 to sync the lights.
Specs are here for the kit I Boughthttp://www.karlu.com/product_info.php?cPath=41_64_716_599&products_id=8989
All new to this, so any help would be appreciated.
ThanksHmm – have to think about this one a little. It doesn’t look like you’re doing anything wrong although there some aspects that I would question. The first being the use of the ST-E2. I haven’t used this myself and am not that familiar with it but I do know that it’s meant to be used with EOS flash units. To what extent it’s suitable as a general flash trigger, I really can’t say, but I can’t help wondering if this might be the cause of some of your difficulties.
I presume you’re using a Canon camera – which one? I’m also going to ask the very obvious question – are you sure you’re using your lightmeter correctly (i.e. in incident mode)?
I would suggest that you forget about using two lights for the moment and just work with one to start off with. You can do an awful lot with one flash and a strategically placed reflector (or two, or three!). At least this way you reduce the number of variables to start out with, making life a little easier for yourself.
Had a look at the ST-E2 manual and all it states thats its to be used with flash units, so that might be my first problem. I am using the canon 10D camera. And using the Sekonic in Incident reading i.e using the Lumisphere to measure the lighting.The meter can be used either in Ambient/Auto Reset Cordless flash/ Cord Flash (using sync cord)
Could i get a cheap alternative to the ST-E2 just to fire the lights?? Other than using the sync cord connected to the 10DI can try the same set up without the ST-E2 this weekend and see if the E-TTL is the problem.
Still have a 10D as a backup camera myself (now using the 30D as my main camera). The first thing you’ve done correctly is not connect the 10D to the lights with the sync cord. It’s only rated at 6V and unless you know for sure that the trigger voltage of your lights is as low or lower than that, then there is a risk of damage to the camera.
Sounds like you’re doing everything right. The fact that you are using manual mode should mean that the ST-E2 really should not influence you’re exposure. I guess if you have an ST-E2 then you also have an EOS flash unit. Try using that to trigger your studio lights as an alternative. Set it to manual mode and reduce the power output to the lowest value and then point it up or behind you. This way you will minimise the effect of it on the overall exposure but there should be enough power to trigger the optical slaves of the studio units.
I use a rather cheap but functional radio trigger (MiniMagic Slave Trigger) with my studio lights, available from studioflash.co.uk. Worth getting IMHO.
Thanks Thorsen Im glad I asked that question, I did not know about the possible damage to the 10D. I have the 420Ex flash so the option to reduce the flash power is not available unlike the 550EX, but I will give it a go anyways.
have a look at these Thorsten I know they are a cheaper version of the ones you have but are they similar or worth the money
will they work?
John – I’m not sure what those are like. I think they’re OK and I suppose at that price you really can’t go wrong. There was another type on display at the SWPP trade show in Dublin late last year, but for the life of me I can’t think what make they were. But like the one I have, they were a “budget ” model. The unit I have is also available locally at Paddy Barkers, as he is the Irish agent for studioflash.co.uk. He also does the Rolls-Royce of radio slaves, the Pocket-Wizard.
I think the best value-for-money professional grade radio slave system is the Elinchrom EL Skyport system and I will probably get myself one of these in the not too distant future.
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