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ISO 400 Film with ISO 200 camera
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Good point…ok will get some tonight,just order a 6207091 Canon CanoScan 9000F Flatbed Scanner.hope could do all the 36 pixs 35mm film in a day :-)
To thefizz, I’m planning going into your site during the week to get those darkroom equipment, what will I need? Need bag, chemist? Box? Etc?…
Johnny,
good luck with the project, you will get a massive buzz
from it when you develop that film and open the tank to hang the
film for drying – serious grin factor !!!!!good luck and we are all here for help if you need it !!!!!
Cheers everyone for your help…. i dont know why m feeling nervous about those develop. Is there a course that teach you about those “darkroom in the bag”, I can pick up quickly in about a hour or two…. I would like to study more about it but I feel like homer Simpsons as cant think straight!
Is there anyone willing to teach me, I dont mind paying you! Just to learn about colour and black/white!
Great timing johnny, I’m teaching a beginner’s darkroom workshop this Saturday in Trim and have one place available if your interested. It covers B&W film development and printing.
Yeah? just a gently remind that Im deaf…no problem to be more clear and vision? (Im a good lips reader)
I’d be happy to email you the workshop notes if thats more convenient for you to try it on your own?
Hi I had a ektar 100 but I forgot to bring the camera back down as had on iso400 mean (pull 2stop?) photolabs and gunn don’t do 2stop.best way sent to England :-s
To go back to the point of exposure, the more you expose your negative, the more shadow detail you get on it. Shadow detail on a negative, is represented by the lighter tones on the physical negative, so if your exposure is not letting in enough light to give detail in your shadow areas, then those shadow areas on your negative will simply be clear (ie no detail captured). So, when shooting black and white negatives, photographers use the exposure to determine how much shadow detail they will get on their negative, and then use the processing time to determine how much development the highlights on their negatives get. Thus when you hear photographers saying ‘expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights’.
The same principle holds for your colour negatives, at least where shadow detail is concerned – ie if your exposure does not allow for detail in the shadows, then your negative will simply not contain any detail in those areas. This is why you see many photographers overexposing (usually by 2/3’s or even a full stop) when they are shooting b&w or colour negatives. Treating your iso 400 film as an iso 200 film, means that you are overexposing each of your shots by 1 stop, which ensures your shadow areas contain more details. Many photographers prefer the results they get from over-exposing their negatives, for just that reason. The level of overexposure varies between 1/3 to a full stop, depending on the film and a photographers preference.
By the way, Ektar allegedly has a very narrow range, and is akin to slide film I believe, in the need to get your exposure as accurate as possible. Roger Hicks has a good writeup of his experiences with Ektar on his site (http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/reviews%20kodak%20ektar%20100.html” onclick=”window.open(this.href);return false;)
A slightly more adventurous option, if you can’t wait until its dark, or if you don’t want the bag (which is actually an easy way to do it, so don’t be scared), you could also get a daylight-loading tank. s/h they cost about the same as a bag and an ordinary tank, but can be a bit finnicky to use as well. Some are better than others :) Good luck.
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