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J.J.Gilmour, The Loft Kinloss Scotland, advice needed
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So I already know that the pics are not that great, and he had a purple/blueish spotlight on him. but I would like some hints and tips on how to improve for next time. Have tried to tidy in PS but am struggling to find the best way to take any pics on any subject without flash when it is as dark as this.
First pic also showing a B&W version,
taken with a canon EOS500d 18-55 f5.6, exp 1/25 iso 800 manual exp, no tripod, no flash.
B&W version of same pic
This pic had all the same settings apart from exp being 1/50
Hi again Connie,
I think that with your equipment – and in similar light conditions – this will be as good as it gets with a ‘slow’ lens (F/4-f/5.6).
You have two options – use a good flash, get a ‘fast’ lens – or ask them to turn the lights on!
Your problem is that you can’t get a fast enough shutter speed to freeze the action (1/60-1/80 perhaps) – but at the same time – let enough light in to get a good exposure. You images are going to be soft at anything under 1/50….unless the musician remains perfectly still.
For now – rather than investing in an expensive zoom f/2.8 – i’d highly recommend getting the ‘Nifty Fifty’. Not only good for this type of project- but a very useful addition to a kit bag. Awesome for portraits.
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-50mm-f-1.8-II-Lens-Review.aspx
You can get brand new on the web (Amazon, ebay, pixmania, etc) for approx €100 – or maybe second hand for €60. Its a prime lens – so you have to ‘foot focus’. The optical quality on the lens is surperb for the money.
Here’s the flickr group (with 75,000 images)
http://www.flickr.com/groups/99827226N00/
At some venues you won’t be near enough to the stage – but at some more intimate venues – you can get up close.
Hope this helps.
ciao
bren
http://www.flickr.com/photos/brencullen/Thanks Bren for an easy breakdown I can understand lol and for all the links. I am happy to know it was not ALL just poor photography on my part. I like the idea it is good for portraits as that is a subject I have not really explored. Will add this to the wish list as I want a macro and need a flash too lol.
What do you mean by “foot focus?”‘Foot Focus’ – means moving yo ass back and forward to frame the shot. means you also have to think about it a lot more – rather than twisting the focus ring.
bren
http://www.flickr.com/photos/brencullen/Hi Connie,
I think you can use the equipment you have to get better gig photographs.
First of all you used an ISO setting of 800.
As far as I know you can set a much higher ISO than that.
I regularly use 3200 on my 40D and as far as I know you can set an even higher
ISO on the 500D.
Higher ISOs can mean more noise but if it means getting a better photograph ……You can also set your camera to SPOT metering if you wish to meter for a small
area of the scene like the eyes or face of your desired subject.
With the large variations of light at a gig the camera can try to average out the
light available and not really properly expose any part of the scene.If you use auto focus you can decide which area of the image the camera is to
focus on by switching on or off the focussing points.I would also recommend setting your camera to save a RAW and a Jpeg.
I find it great for making adjustments to white balance for photographs such as these.
It can also be possible to bring back some detail into highlights and shadow areas.
Densly coloured lights will show up in your images but there is little you can do about that.I can also highly recommend the Canon 50mm 1.8.
I bought one a few weeks back and it is great fun to use.I look forward to seeing more gig stuff.
John.
i got mine from camerabox.I also highly recommend it and you can get inexpensive polarising filters for it from argos
http://www.camerabox.co.uk/productDA1.asp?ProductName=Canon-EF-50mm-F1.8-Mk-II&ProductID=4815″ onclick=”window.open(this.href);return false;
Thanks for those tips John. I take all my pics in raw but never thought of using the raw and jpeg option. I was worried about going to such a high iso because of noise but will def try it next time. At the moment I take several of the same pics including a fully auto but find I am starting to get used to the manual focus. trial and error. If I am honest I have not looked properly at the metering options yet. So much to learn lol
Thanks for the link to the website Sorleymaclean and once finances permit will be investing :)A few other tips (some covered by Brendan and John):
– Just buy the nifty fifty, don’t even think about it
– Get in close to your subject
– Check your exposure in the histogram. Sometimes a stop or so less is needed to get this right.
– Consider shooting in manual mode to keep exposure the same.
– Also consider using Tv mode set at 1/60th or so, with automatic aperature and ISO
– A picture that is slightly too dark but sharp may be better than a picture a bit too bright and soft.
– Shoot ISO800-1250
– Shoot RAW
– Shoot in short continuous bursts
– Make sure your focus point is correct
– Wait for lulls in the music, there is no point in trying to capture people when they are bopping around
– Watch the lighting. Sometimes there will be a position on the stage or a timing in the programming that will give extra light that you can use
– Use your flash with FEC of -2. you can always use Levels later to darken blacks
– Consider getting a cheapy diffuser (see eB**) for your pop up flash
– Consider a secondhand flash what can swivel or tilt (e.g. a 380EX)
– Make sure that YOU are not moving! Find some way of bracing yourself.
– Don’t expect a full size print, you may need to reduce the size to get an acceptable quality.The shot below was taken with a 350D and nifty fifty at f2.5 & 1/60th in Av, ISO800, bounced flash and judicious timing:
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