- This topic is empty.
Motorsport photography beginners help!
-
Cheers lads :D
I use Aufo Focus. I find Manual Focus a bit more risky because I don’t know if my first few shots are 100% clear.
no worries there bud!
well u have got the digital now so play around a bit, and see which comes out easier for u and better!
my photos are still all 35mm and i use MF,
Thanks for that! my next event in 2 weeks time so ill test it out there! :)
no probs!
u might also want to checkout this site which should be of ur interest!
Hi all,
Just a quick message to say , RallyFocus Photography has setup a website!
http://www.RallyFocusPhotography.com
Have a look and feedback is welcome! :D
Hi again,
Im looking for some tips again lads.
2 Friends put stickers of website link on their rally cars. I offered to take some photo’s of them parked up. ( A photoshoot in otherwords ) :lol:
Anyone know best settings/modes for this? Or any tips and tricks?
Thanks,
PádraigA polarising filter may help to reduce the reflections from the cars and glass surfaces, which may make them more attractive in photos and reduce glare from your flash.
You may find an external flash (cheap generic is ~€100) helps as you can reflect it or take it off camera to light from different directions – you could achieve this with a spotlight or other light source if you don’t want to buy a flash and kit to take it off-camera, for which you would need an external flash head and the correct cables and hot-shoe flash adapter. I use a D300 Nikon which will link wirelessly to my flash heads so I don’t know what you’d need to do this on a Canon but I don’t think the 450D has the wireless capability. I’m sure someone can advise if you want to go down this route. I don’t think you will get a dramatic effect lighting with the camera’s in-built flash.
A wide aperture (use your camera in Aperture Priority mode to change this) would allow you to blur the background and focus attention on the cars, especially if you picked up a relatively inexpensive prime 50mm f1.8 (also ~€100) which is also a fast lens so it needs a lower exposure time, although it has a walking zoom so you need to move in and out to get the framing you want.
Changing your colour mode to vivid will give you a richer colour in the final JPEGs
You may find that changing your autoficus and exposure modes to spot instead of matrix metering will reduce the calculations the camera has to do before it’s ready to take, and therefore speed up your autofocus time when you’re shooting moving targets…
Finally if you’re doing shots with lots of sky (ie low down) in if you put an ND grad filter in front of your lens you can drop the sky’s exposure so it will be more blue instead of white (assuming it’s a clear day!)
sorry that was a quick reply. Hopefully in general it’s accurate!
If you are looking for tips 4 motorsport photography look on youtube and type in (action photography) or (motorsport photography tips) there great help.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
