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Night Shooting – Metering & Other Tips Welcome
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Cheers for the links Eddie, may have to wait until I have all my wits about me, to try understand the exposure calculator :)
Saw Philip’s site before and must say I was impressed, would love to see some of his prints someday.
I can empathise with your preference for a nice slow film, and tripod mounted camera too. I would love to shoot at night with a medium format camera loaded with Acros, which I imagine I will nicely compliment being able to shoot handheld. Some day..
Using the calculator I recommended 1. Cut the left sheet off. 2 Using a craft knife cut out the empty white boxes on the middle sheet “film Speed” and “shutter speed or exposure time” Align the first complete sheet (slide) behind the second sheet with the cut outs and read off based on scene you are shooting. Took a while to figure it out but its very good and worth the effort.
Have you any plans to go out shooting soon? It should be interesting to see the results.
I had done a handful of night shots myself about 10/11 years ago, they came out ok from what I remember, I was using 35mm film on a camera with a meter. Reading this topic has got me interested again, I must get the film camera out again and do some night shots, I got a roll of Ilford Delta 3200, which I think I will try out.
I would advise you to rate your 3200 film at 1600 iso ( just an exposure difference of 1 stop) and reduce your development time by 15-20%. The development times are usually on the box or the Ilford site.
I have a couple of cameras I have film in at the moment, just have to finish shooting a roll before I can put the Delta into one of them. It’s been so long since I’ve used the 3200, is there much difference shooting it as 1600 compared to leaving it at 3200?
It’s been ages since I did any home developing, I have a couple of tanks, but nothing else, as I moved house a couple of years ago, and some stuff seemed to go missing.Shooting Delta 3200 at 1600 ISO is a difference of just 1 stop, but the resulting neg. is similar to the HP4. You can develop it in stock ID11 for 9.5 mins and you will have results provided your metering is reasonably accurate. I would be inclined to bracket 1 stop either side of my chosen one.
You will get as many suggestions as there are photographers so pick any one and go with it and see how you get on. Good luck shooting.I went to check one of the cameras (an old Yashica) I was intending putting the 3200 into, I haven’t used it for about 7 months or so, I remember putting a Fuji b&w into it, and the film in it is a 1600iso, I forgot I put that into it, I still have 7 or 8 shots left, so I think I will finish that off and put the other roll into that. I may well leave the 3200 film at that rating, as I seem to remember getting some good results from the last time I used one years ago. I vaguely remember someone telling me at the time that the Delta had a much finer grain that the Kodak TMAX 3200 (I think it was a TMAX film, but was definately a Kodak 3200) for the speed. Does anyone know if the Kodak one is still made?
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