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Proofing your slide film on digital.
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Don’t know how I’d go about figuring this out and can’t find anything on Google (well not on the first page anyway :-) ) I want to start shooting more slide film but would like to use my Nikon D50 to proof the shot first.
How would I convert an exposure of say 1/80 f13 on 200 ISO on the D50 (1.5 crop factor) to Fuji Velvia 50. I know the results wouldn’t be exactly the same but it would be great to know I was in the right exposure area to start.
Maybe it’s not possible to convert?
-Phil
Unless you shoot macro with extension tubes, use long exposures or use filters, the exposure should be the same at the same settings, you just have to multiply the exp. time by 4 if you convert from iso 200 to iso 50.
Surely not though? My D50 only goes down to ISO 200 and I would like to shoot Velvia 50. Also doesn’t the sensor size affect the exposure values too? I just heard someone mention that.
Digital & film exposures unfortunately aren’t the same. Try using a handheld light meter and you’ll see. The reading you’ll get for film, if you use that reading for dig, it wont be exposed properly. (Oh, if you’re shooting on Velvia 50, rate it at 80, it’s much nicer 8) )
Thanks for the tip, will do :-)
Yeah I suppose I knew that the exposure values are different but I thought there might be a way to calculate the film exposure based on the digital one. e.g. Something like the film exposure would be 1 stop different. Maybe I’m barking up the wrong tree?
Unfortunately from my experience anyway, they’re not the same. Eg: 1/500 at F7.1 on ASA100 film wont be the same as a digital camera set at 1/500 at F7.1 ASA100. You’d think they should be, as they’re the same exposure settings. But the results wont be same, the digital photo will probably be over exposed, it would need to be 1/500 at F9.
I see what you mean but do you think it would be the same difference all the time? e.g. if I took a photo I was happy with on the digital at 1/500 F9, do you think I could reliably convert this to 1/500 F7.1 on ASA100?
I wouldn’t rely on it being the same all the time! The best method for getting correct exposures on film, is to use a handheld light meter. Once you learn how to use it properly, it’s a film photographers best friend…you get to a point where you know its going to tell you the right exposure reading everytime, and when it’s going to get caught out also.
markcapilitan wrote:
(Oh, if you’re shooting on Velvia 50, rate it at 80, it’s much nicer 8) )
I beg to differ. Using Velvia 50 at an EI of 80 is is going to result in blocked up shadows and reduced dynamic range. I used to use Velvia with an EI of 40 in order to open up the shadow detail. But I wouldn’t recommend following that advice either! You see, it depends what your final output is going to be. If it is projection, then the rated EI may well be OK but if it’s prints you want, you will most likely want to increase your exposures by a third of a stop or so.
I think using a digital camera as a proofing device (or the equivalent of polaroid film) is a fine idea provided you remember one very important difference between film and digital – the response of a digital sensor is linear throughout the range from shadow to highlight, whereas the response of film as non-linear.
Getting a separate hand held meter and learning how to use it is probably one of the most useful exercises you could do – well worth the investment of time and money getting to grips with this regardless of whether you are shooting film or digital.
Thanks Thorsten. Some good advice there. Gonna keep an eye out for a meter and do a few experiments see how it goes.
Rating Velvia at 40, or 50 or 80 is a matter of preference. From looking at landscape photographer books, most of them seemed to have rated it at 40. When I was working in F1, everyone shooting Velvia rated it at 80, hence I did as I was taught too, and would if I ever shoot it again.
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