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WRC 2009
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some of me pictures taken at Aughasheelan and Arigna
could do with some help on light and depth settings
camera is a Nikon d80 with a 70-300m nikkor lens
Some great shots Enda. I had similar problems myself with the light. I boosted the exposure a bit but then I got problems with noise. :(
Hiya, I really like the first one and the third one, the splashing water really adds something to it. I presume you’re asking for help with exposure.
Can you tell us:
What ISO
What aperature
and What Shutter speed they were taken at?Do you have the files in RAW format, if not, have a play with the Levels tools, it should brighten it up somewhat.
Brian_C wrote:
Hiya, I really like the first one and the third one, the splashing water really adds something to it. I presume you’re asking for help with exposure.
Can you tell us:
What ISO
What aperature
and What Shutter speed they were taken at?Do you have the files in RAW format, if not, have a play with the Levels tools, it should brighten it up somewhat.
iso=80
aperature=f4
files=rawspanky wrote:
iso=80
aperature=f4
files=rawDon’t you mean ISO 800 ?? :wink:
ISO – 80 – wow as Paul said, are you sure it’s not 800. ISO 80 = great for landscape work, bad for fast moving sports photography. If you’re using ISO 80 then that’ll explain why the images are a little dark and there’s a few blurring issues, caused by the slow shutter speeds required to use ISO 80.
I don’t know if you understand ISO ratings or not, so I’ll explain (if you do understand then please forgive me) – OK ISO ratings are the sensor’s or film’s sensitivity to light. As with all photography numbering, ISO standards works on a doubling and halving calculation. So ISO 100 requires twice as much light as ISO 200 to correctly expose and image, and ISO 200 twice as much as ISO 400, etc etc 400 > 800 > 1600 etc etc.
Given the poor lighting conditions and the fast moving cars I’d personally use ISO 400 as a starting point and adjust as appropriate. This will give a much much faster shutter speed.
That aside you’ve done a very good job using ISO 80.As you’ve shot these in RAW, you should be able to bring back some of the detail lost in the shadow/dark areas. Just have a play in Photoshop, or what ever RAW editing you have. Look at adjusting Brightness, Exposure, Gamma, Saturation, Contrast… on the RAW file. If you’ve not sure, do a Google as there’s lots of tutorials around on it.
When you check the image EXIF, it does show ISO 800, so I assume the ISO 80 was just a typo.
paul wrote:
When you check the image EXIF, it does show ISO 800, so I assume the ISO 80 was just a typo.
sorry shutter speed 80 my fault
am looking to get a better lens soon because il need onespanky wrote:
sorry shutter speed 80 my fault
am looking to get a better lens soon because il need oneSome of those images have a shutter speed of 1/160.
For panning images, you should be trying for 1/60 or so. To freeze the action, you might want a shutter speed faster than 1/400.
Still, great images. :D
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