About a year ago I picked up a Rolleicord on ebay for a fraction of what you are willing to pay. For a bit more cash I got a stock of film, and some chemicals and stuff to develop at home. I’d say at most I have spent about 300 to date, that was including a complete CLA in germany, after which the camera looks new. I have a number of rolls developed, and the results speak for themselves. I have to force myself to stop thinking about technical perfection when it comes to a photo. The Rolleicord V has no light meter, so for a while before I got a lightmeter, I was guessing the exposure required for each shot. Most of my stuff is done indoors during the day, so mostly it’s in and around 1/30 sec F3.5 ISO 400. Obviously if I need to go to a smaller aperture, I need to increase the amount of light, or the exposure time.
Personally I think that’s where half of the experience lies. If you can train yourself to become a lightmeter its half the battle won! No need for batteries, just a mechanically reliable camera.
Thanks for the pointers people, jb7 I didn’t realise I was heading into unknown territory for Prescysol EF and a C41 film… Ooops!
Seeming as I have a bucket of the developer left, what film would you recommend? Althought I do have a half dozen rolls of XP2 super I’d like to use up.
I suppose we’re both right, and both wrong. It is possible to extract up to 20 stops of tonal range from a black and white print, But to achieve this, one would have to do something similar to raw processing for a single image HDR from a digital camera. Although there may be 20 stops of range available, the visible range printed from a negative may be alot lower. To increase the range visible, you’d need to do something similar to what Charles Wyckoff did for the atomic bombs tests, multiple prints need to be combined in order to present the full range in one single photograph.
From looking at the shadows, and range in the image I believe that this image is not HDR. Someone correct me if I am wrong, because I’m certainly not infallible!
Is this HDR?
I wonder how many megapixels that is…
I don’t think you can call B&W film HDR by any stretch of the imagination. To my recollection, B&W film gives you a dynamic range of about 7 stops. Where’s multiple raw digital exposures can give you up to 20 stops of dynamic range.
I have both a lowe pro slingshot, and a Vertex 200 AW. I have to say the Vertex is brilliant when you want to bring alot of gear with you at the same time, generally I have a 70-200mm on my 40d and a random lens on my 400D. It’s good and surdy, but the waist straps annoyed me, they say a stanley blade :D
The slingshot fits the 40D with the 70-200mm barely. I would recommend something bigger, or something alot bigger if you want bring a flash too
interesting Dave… so probably a fault with the 40D metering, although your problem sounds a bit more continuous, whereas mine tends to be more random. Are you able to dial in a 2 stop exposure compensation and then shoot as per normal?
Gary
I generally up shooting in manual mode, I do alot of panning shots so I do like the control, as frustrating as it can be…