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domgur

  • domgur
    Participant

    It’s 100 for the enlarger and color head with psu, plus 50 for the lens.

    Let me know if you’re interested.

    domgur
    Participant

    eos 6d. full frame for 1000 euros.
    extremely high quality low light photos

    domgur
    Participant

    I had a fuji mirrorless for a couple months – never again, i found it extremely difficult to take sharp pictures, autofocus was so unpredictable. especially with fast moving objects (read: kids). would definitely recommend a dslr.

    but i know you can actually try both in the shops (the wicklow street camera shop can even lend you the 2 cameras so you can have a look yourself.

    domgur
    Participant

    Do you need colour or black and white films developed? No idea about colour but the best place for bw is definitely your bathroom. I, or I guess others on this forum, can give you a hand if you’ve never developed your bw film.

    domgur
    Participant

    If you’re thinking black and white then your golden rule is to expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights – the shadows on a negative are the thinnest parts of the image, so you need to make sure some light hits the halides which can later be developed – you do not want these parts of your image to be completely black on your final print. And that is taken care of by the exposure.

    Then you can adjust the development time (or temperature) to ensure highlights are developed correctly. If in effect you overexpose (i.e. extend exposure time in order to ensure some details are captured in the shadow) then you need to shorten your development time.

    Any bw negative can be shot at higher ISO rating (i.e. underexposed and then overdeveloped) but this will generally lead to some loss of quality – bigger grain and contrast becomes more difficult to control. Sometimes this can create quite good effects … Some developers are more flexible in this regards than others. XTOL or Diafine are probably the best examples. But then some folk like the look of HP5 shot at 1600 and developed in Rodinal :-)

    So there is lots of flexibility there, the difference from digital is that there’s no ctrl+Z in your lightroom (I mean darkroom :-)

    For colour analogue you’re not really getting any flexibility unless you can do C41 at home.

    domgur
    Participant

    Lovely shot and composition but I think the photo is underexposed a bit. Have you tried exposure bracketing? I find that digital late evening / sunset photos generally look their best given slightly more exposure and then corrected in lightroom / aperture – this way you get more shadow detail and colors can be picked up as well. but what do I know still shooting film :)

    domgur
    Participant

    Hi Sheena, Is this a long exposure shot or did you photoshop the sky?

    domgur
    Participant

    The colors resemble old Velvia slides my dad used all the time. Good shot and composition, but agree a bit overprocessed.

    domgur
    Participant

    Like the tranquility of the lake …

    domgur
    Participant

    Hi Steve,

    You may also consider one of the Fuji mirrorless cameras – I personally love the XPro1 – great picture quality, great lenses and good fun using the camera!

    domgur
    Participant

    Just added to my order and will share impressions as soon as I develop my first roll :-)

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