[jaybee]

January 14, 2012 at 8:31 pm

AFAIK

Inspirational Arts on Herbert Street (beside the Pepper Canister) are resellers for Eizo…. Also the best printers I have come across in Ireland (pricey but each print is genuinely hand made….) they are agents for gretag macbeth and image rip software and halve frames too….

the Eizo has to be seen to be believed…..!!

[jaybee]

December 6, 2011 at 9:07 pm

i have three at this point, just type in hyper focal in the app store…

some have a nicer interface… its all just a gui for some simple (if you’re a computer) equations…..!!

make sure you get one that considers format. this is important as most of the printed tables are for 35mm, which doesn’t work for crop sensors… or hasselblads….

[jaybee]

November 19, 2011 at 9:08 pm

you can also get free iPhone apps that do it for you!!

[jaybee]

September 30, 2011 at 5:37 pm

superwide….

[jaybee]

September 30, 2011 at 4:43 pm

markclehane wrote:

what difference would it give me for landscape type shots, to have the faster tokina, and is it worth the additional cost for what I want to do?

Shooting a landscape scene at anything below f8 would result in too shallow a depth of field for it to be effective. For the most part, people will want their landscapes (or cityscapes for that matter) to be sharp and in focus from front to back. If you were to shoot at f2.8, only the area immediately in front of and behind your focus area would be sharp. Everything else would be nicely blurred (called Bokeh I think). But blurry landscapes rarely work :D. For the type of photography you’re talking about, you would nearly always use an aperture between f8 and f22. These apertures will result in slower shutter speed as well which is why tripods are essential for landscapes.
To answer your question – I personally would go for the cheaper Sigma in this case, provided it’s got decent reviews at least.

area immediately in front of and behind your focus area…

true but the area immediately in front of and behind a hyperfocal focus point at 10mm on a d90 is 26 metres at f1.8 and effectively infinite at f2.8….

tis one of the joys of superstar!!

[jaybee]

August 4, 2011 at 9:16 am

couldnt agree more….

The 5D is a lovely camera, which I only abandoned in favor of a 1Ds MkIII…. you won’t believe the difference a FF makes, esp how big and bright the viewfinder is!!

[jaybee]

August 3, 2011 at 8:33 am

np72 wrote:

Just regarding the Canon lenses Al, I have a Canon Eos DSLR and an Eos 300 film camera, the film cameras use EF lenses, and at least 95%, if not 100% of the EF film lenses can be used with the Eos Digitals, but the EF-S lenses are designed for the Digital Eos cameras and don’t work on the film. Canon planned that when they were designing the Digital Eos range. On the mount of the digitals, there should be 2 marks, 1 red dot, and 1 white square, the red dot is for lining up the film lenses and the white dot is the digital lens mount mark. I know a couple of others who use Canons too, and they seem to have a mix of digital and film lenses, and when I was getting the digital, they said that the full range of film lenses work on the digitals.

not strictly correct….. its not a film/digital divide the ef-s lenses are designed for digital cameras with a small sensor…. thus the size (and cost of producing) of the lens is smaller and as such cannot be used with full-frame eos cameras (digital or film) whereas all eos cameras can use ef lenses

[jaybee]

July 30, 2011 at 7:56 am

B&W are beautifully made German filters (I use their circular polariser in 77 and 58 mm)

Hoya make lens elements for a lot of the major companies so you are getting excellent quality if you buy the japanese version (blue case, not green) make sure you get HMC or SMHC versions!

[jaybee]

July 18, 2011 at 8:49 pm

you can… its called pull-processing…. tell them exactly what you’ve said here….

[jaybee]

July 11, 2011 at 1:21 pm

don’t bother with conn’s as all they will do is send it to hetty…!!!

Hetty is one of the last true craft printers left… anytime I have sent in stuff for develop or print she has exceeded expectations…

last print I had made had a lovely moody sky over water and she did three different prints in 16 x 24 with different combinations of dodge and burn… I was charged for one!! Can’t rate her highly enough… She has all the skills that we now have to master in photoshop when shooting digital, in order to get the same end result as we did with film. Something people often forget is the amount of behind the scenes input a great printer used to make, often without the photographer knowing it… the only digital printers I have encountered with the same ethic is inspirational arts….

[jaybee]

July 2, 2011 at 8:26 pm

don’t go for a new iMac then…. glossy screen will not be friendly to your eyes unless you can completely control the ambient light… I have two… one 20″ matte one 24″ glossy, 20″ although ancient is a much nicer screen to work on…. try a second hand macpro + screen….

[jaybee]

July 2, 2011 at 8:23 pm

have you liquify’ed her back??

[jaybee]

June 24, 2011 at 11:01 am

dml

[jaybee]

June 24, 2011 at 10:59 am

why not buy a used 5D instead of a brand new 600D….?? I sold my minter with grip for € 900 to shift it quick for an upgrade to 1ds mkIII a year and a half ago, you should be able to pick one up for less than that now…..

[jaybee]

June 24, 2011 at 10:55 am

contact the cro, they have a list of suppliers as all companies must get one made… However, you’ll struggle to find one that will stamp a mount, what I think is more common is to print onto art paper with a 3 inch border at the bottom, then you stamp the print on this border and frame around it….