[jqmx0]

February 22, 2013 at 3:32 pm

Hiya,

Is this still available?

Thanks,

J.

[jqmx0]

July 29, 2011 at 9:51 am

This is something I took ages to make a decision on as well, I shoot everything so I need something that I could use for as many situations as possible. In the end I bought:

LCW Fader ND (77mm thread – Front thread on this is 82mm)
CP (82mm so it could be stacked on the Fader ND)

Step up rings
77-82mm – So the CP could be used on its own
58-77mm – For my Canon S3 IS so I could use the Fader ND for timelapse
52-77mm – For my 50mm 1.8f so I could use the Fader ND on it to allow me to use the lens wide open on a sunny day.

[jqmx0]

July 6, 2011 at 2:02 pm

There is one on Baltry Beach

http://maps.google.com/?ll=53.7377,-6.248702&spn=0.001215,0.002411&t=h&z=19

[jqmx0]

June 22, 2011 at 9:26 am

I recently started doing some timelapse, I bought a cable release for my D80 on eBay but quickly realised that I was clocking up large numbers of actuations on my shutter. As I’m still practising, a lot of what I shoot ends up getting deleted. So I bought a Canon S3IS second hand off eBay instead to use as my timelapse camera. I loaded it with CHDK to allow me to use an intervalometer script and started messing around with it. Set everything on the camera to manual, ISO, Aperture, Shutter Speed & Focus – this will help prevent flicker if the light is constant but if you’re trying to capture a sequence where the light is changing a lot you’ll need to start changing your settings. Flicker can be reduced in post but I haven’t progressed to that stage yet. :)

This is one of the first ones I did which turned out ok…..up until the point a gust of wind blew the tripod over – lesson learned, use a heavier tripod :D

[vimeo:amvztsvq]http://www.vimeo.com/23503532[/vimeo:amvztsvq]

[jqmx0]

June 20, 2011 at 3:21 pm

http://www.onestop-digital.com/

I’ve used them a lot even for expensive items. Delivery only takes a couple of days.

[jqmx0]

August 21, 2009 at 10:28 pm

I bought both my Speedlight SB-800 and my 1.8f 50mm from them. I found them to be excellent value and the items are delivered quickly. You couldn’t ask for much more :D

[jqmx0]

July 7, 2009 at 9:25 pm

I have 2 300GB drives in my PC and a matching external HDD. As part of my workflow, after I import my photos into the first internal drive, I run a backup program (Syncback – it’s free) to copy the photos onto the second internal drive and also copy onto the external drive.

This way I have 3 copies of everything, the likelyhood of losing all 3 is highly unlikely. It’s a lot simpler than RAID (once you get into the habit of making it part of your workflow) and you can easily upgrade the discs over time.

I’ve recently bought a 1TB external drive from Easons for €99, they’re good value.

[jqmx0]

June 22, 2009 at 6:30 pm

I’m not sure if this is what you’re looking for but I have a Canon EF-M with a 35-80mm (Slight damage to outer ring) and a Sigma 70-210mm lens I’d be willing to sell if it’s of interest to you.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_EOS_EF-M

[jqmx0]

April 28, 2009 at 8:28 am

Thanks guys I think the shot from above is my best option if possible but a lot of these photos take place in a sports hall so it might not be possible to get a high vantage point.

Sean – Good idea about the stairs. Unfortunately in my situation the photos will be taken in a hall so I won’t have access to stairs.

I was doing some research online and found a couple of additional tips I thought I’d pass on.

1. Get those standing in the photo to stand at a 45 degree angle toward the centre of the group. This has a number of advantages, it looks more professional, you can fit more people into the shot as they can stand closer together and everyone looks thinner :)

2. Tell everyone to make sure they can see the camera with both eyes otherwise only part of their faces will be seen in the photo.

There is also a school of thought that you should use off camera flash (3 units – one left, one right and one just off camera) all slightly higher than the camera pointing down towards the group to avoid the people in front causing a shadow on those behind – it’s a good idea but not practical if you only have a couple of minutes to take the shot and you’re on your own :)

[jqmx0]

January 29, 2009 at 12:51 pm

Onestop Digital

I’ve bought both a flash (SB-800) and a lens(50mm 1.8 ) from them, good prices and worth paying for the courier delivery (I ordered my lens last Thursday and it arrived on Monday)

[jqmx0]

January 28, 2009 at 4:08 pm

Really nice abstract shot, how would it look in b&w?

[jqmx0]

December 1, 2008 at 7:07 pm

jqmx0 wrote:

I had some free time last night so I tried out the free invisible watermarking application called Concealar http://concealar.googlepages.com/

I started with a photo and created a version of it using the application which had a copyright message embedded in it.

The resulting photo looked identical to the original, I suspect there may have been additional noise but as the point of this exercise is to protect an image which is going up on the web I didn’t check too carefully.

I verified that I could retrieve the message.

I then opened the photo and cropped it a little bit and saved it under a new filename, I then attempted to retrieve the message but the program could not find it.

I also did a screen capture and saved the photo that way, again the message could not be found.

It looks like this invisible watermark is only useful as long as the thief doesn’t get the image from a screen capture or crops it :(

Maybe the more expensive Digimarc solution gets around these problems, I’ve sent them a query to ask, I’ll let you know what their answer is.

I got a response from Digimarc about the robustness of their watermarking solution to cropping etc.

To answer your question simply, yes the digital watermark should survive as our watermarks are designed to be robust and survive most typical image edits and file conversions. But there are ways to impair the survivability of our watermarks. I am providing a link to our Digital Watermarking guide for further information on this and for helpful tricks and tips on how to embed the most robust watermark. https://www.digimarc.com/mypicturemarc/support/watermark-guide.asp

[jqmx0]

November 28, 2008 at 11:49 am

I had some free time last night so I tried out the free invisible watermarking application called Concealar http://concealar.googlepages.com/

I started with a photo and created a version of it using the application which had a copyright message embedded in it.

The resulting photo looked identical to the original, I suspect there may have been additional noise but as the point of this exercise is to protect an image which is going up on the web I didn’t check too carefully.

I verified that I could retrieve the message.

I then opened the photo and cropped it a little bit and saved it under a new filename, I then attempted to retrieve the message but the program could not find it.

I also did a screen capture and saved the photo that way, again the message could not be found.

It looks like this invisible watermark is only useful as long as the thief doesn’t get the image from a screen capture or crops it :(

Maybe the more expensive Digimarc solution gets around these problems, I’ve sent them a query to ask, I’ll let you know what their answer is.

[jqmx0]

November 27, 2008 at 11:30 am

A few more links to invisible watermarking

http://www.signumtech.com/template3.asp?pageID=4&prodID=19

http://www.alphatecltd.com/watermarking/eikonamark/eikonamark.html

[jqmx0]

November 27, 2008 at 10:23 am

andy mcinroy wrote:

But if I put it into perspective for you. I have had photos online for 10 years and this is the first time that something as blatantly dishonest has happened to me.

I guess that’s a good ratio, I’m surprised it’s not higher as your photos are stunning :D

One other link worth looking at is a free invisible watermarking application called Concealar http://concealar.googlepages.com/

J.