As you probably know the L consists of 10 images usually presented in two rows of five. I’d start by getting at least 20 if not 30 images to give yourself the best possible selection to choose from. Draft prints at 6×4 on the kitchen table is a great way to start arranging the panel.
The top middle image is usually considered the central image so I would suggest putting your best image there. A good portrait for example works well as it tends to draw the eye. The images around it on both rows should work to lead the eye into the middle of the panel.
A symmetrical arrangement of images is also useful as part of the judging does take the layout of the panel itself into consideration.
Make sure the printing is up to scratch too. The judges will take a close look at the individual shots and poorly printed but otherwise excellent images can cause a panel to fail.
They just stick to the wall, are easy to remove and don’t need any nails or leave any holes. You should be able to find them easily in the likes of Woodies or even Superquinn.
However if the frames are in any way big or valuable then I’d go with gaffo’s suggestion. I have a mix of command strips and plasterboard screws myself depending on the weight of the frames.
I had a set of Cactus V4 triggers and found them very unreliable with a lot of mis-fires and random triggering on all the available channels, although I do know other people who’ve had no problems with them.
I’ve since picked up a set of RF-602’s from e-bay shop http://stores.ebay.com/hkyongnuophotoequipment and found them perfect. I also like the smaller form factor and the fact that they can also be used as a wireless cable release instead of a flash trigger.
You don’t say how much gear you’ll be carrying but maybe something like the Lowepro Rover Plus AW or the Orion Trekker might be what you’re looking for. Both have a padded bottom compartment for your camera gear and a second top one for other important stuff like lunch :)
I have the Rover Plus myself and it has plenty of space for a DSLR with lens, a flash and two or three more lenses. I find it very useful for traveling cause it means I can take my camera gear and other essentials on a plane in one piece of hand luggage.
The best tool I’ve heard of and keep hearing about for this type of problem is SpinRite (http://www.grc.com/spinrite.htm). I’ve never actually used it myself and it’s not free, but at $89 it’s a far cheaper first option then sending the drive off for a repair.
There should be a little adjustment wheel on the camera right beside the eyepiece to change the diopter setting of the viewfinder itself. Might be what you’re looking for? If it doesn’t do the trick you should be able to get a adaptor close to your prescription to fit over the viewfinder.
It’s a nice silhouette and I like the highlights on the trunk and main branch as they help to give the tree a sense of depth. However I for me, the highlight at the top is distracting and I think removing it might be an idea.
Nice images. In particular I like the first one, especially the high-contrast in the image. I might be tempted to crop it in from the left a little to loose the timer thing on the wall and maybe give the picture a bit more balance?
Check Ewa-Marine (http://www.ewa-marine.com). They make waterproof housings to allow normal SLRs be used when diving so they probably have something you can use sailing.
Wacom http://www.wacom.com make good tablets. I have an older A6 sized Graphire (I think) which works fine with both Photoshop Elements and Gimp. I wouldn’t worry too much about the size of the tablet except maybe to get one that’s the same aspect ratio as your monitor.
Smilian, that’s a nicely timed shot and I like the blur. But otherwise for me the shot is too dark and looks underexposed. However maybe a levels or curves adjustment might be possible to brighten the shot and give it some more contrast?