There are lots of reasons why it might not be working for you but I do know that the R3000 should be able to deliver the goods if used correctly. This is how I would go about it.
Scan your negative flat without adjustment or correction.
Assuming you are using a decent monitor. Profile it using the manual options: Gamma 2.2 6500K whitepoint and and luminence of around 120. It’s important that you keep your working environment consistent and block out window light. Your editing room should be comfortably lit – I use a 5000K flourescent bulb relected off a white ceiling.
Make your adjustments in photoshop.
Make a print using the Advanced Black and White options in the Epson Driver. The results are very good.
You could also use the Quadtone RIP software which supports the R3000.
Don’t expect your print to match your monitor exactly. If you want to compare screen to print then an affordable option is 4700K Solux Clip on light.
The best advice of all is to read ‘Real World Color Management’ by Bruce Fraser and understand what’s going on under the hood.
It’s been a while since I did any Colour Management work so some of my advice may be outdated. Apologies in advance.
Thanks for the info. Will keep trying. Im using the same scanner as yourself i think the V700, computer wise its a 24inch IMAC so the screen I would think should be ok. I might invest in a new monitor calibrator as the one im using is an old Spyder 3… Ill look into “Quadtone RIP” also and try to get my hands on ‘Real World Color Management’ Thanks for the detailed info.
I first stepped into a darkroom in 1984 as a schoolboy. I have also worked professionally in the photographic processing business, handling colour neg (C-41) and traditional black and white film. I have printed colour (RA-4) on the Fuji Frontier and by hand using a Durst Enlarger. I have printed black and white, mostly as a hobby for many years using both graded and multigrade papers and many different enlargers from a cheapo Krokus up to the top of the range Leitz.
More recently I have worked as a colour management consultant to photographers and have created colour profiles for many Epson printer from your R3000 (which is quite capable of producing excellent black and white using Epson’s own driver) right up to the Epson 9800.
A year or two ago, out off interest, I scanned a 5×4 negative on an Epson V700 and printed it on my Epson 3800, using Canson Photo Satin paper and Quad Tone Rip.
I took the same negative into a darkroom and printed a similar sized print onto (if I remember correctly) grade 2 fibre based paper using a De Vere Enlarger.
Tonally the results were almost identical. Framed behind glass you’d have been hard pressed to tell which was which.
Thats very interesting. Would love to pick our brains. Have been totally frustrated with the R3000 trying to get decent prints out of it. Using calibrated monitor, proper paper profiles and fibre papers. The results have been totally hit and miss…
I love my film cameras and thoroughly enjoy processing a roll of film. But my love of analogue ends there. The traditional methods cannot hope to achieve what is possible with a good scan, a good knowledge of photoshop and a decent printer. Particularly when it comes to making a black and white print.
I have printed digitally (epson r3000) and in a darkroom. I don’t think my digital prints come anywhere near the hand printed fibre. How experienced are you in a darkroom?
Have been using Heliopan and B+W filters for years. Both superb brands as good as each other.
Have also been using step up rings for years. I don’t buy brass step up rings. I just got the cheapest ones I could get from ebay for my lenses.
Never really had much problems with the brass filters sticking to the cheap step up rings to be honest (a quick bang against a table loosens the ring from the filter I find most of the time).
Up to you but I wouldn’t spend allot of money on step up rings, aluminium is fine, spend the money on good B+W or Heliopan filters…
I think you have a reasonable point tex, if people want to stay in the past and use prehistoric equipment then they should pay more. Their waste disposal rates should also be much more expensive as treating all those harmful chemicals can be quite costly.
Dave.
Your post made me laugh. I still shoot film and like to work in a darkroom to do my printing. I dont see it as pre historic and even if it was I would not care as I find it very enjoyable. Allot of the chemicals I use are fairly harmless, kodak xtol which is vitamin c based, ECO 4812 which is also fairly harmless as well as the lith developer I use which has been formulated to be friendlier to the environment. I think if you were to look under your sink at your house cleaning products, these are actually allot more harmful and costlier to the environment:-)
Anyhow will get back to my prehistoric hobby
M
Vincent: Water charges wont stop me. I dont use that much water anyhow. I wash my prints in Hypo or Sodium Sulphite which cuts the wash time in half. I also use very hot water to wash my prints which reduces the amount of water I use. I never leave the tap running… My prints will outlive me washing them this way…
EDIT: Forgot to say Vincent, you can also use sea water to wash your print, they used to use sea water years ago. Anything clean with salt/sodium in it basically can be used. Rinse in fresh water afterwards though…
Peter at thephotoshop.ie has some, good quality stuff, the shops around town generally sell an inferior board which has an acid core that turns brown, they will tell you it’s acid free but it’s only the outer board that’s acid free. If you want to buy in bulk Glenwood mouldings will supply do acid free a great range and will deliver for about a 10€. Peter will also arrange delivery.
+1 I get all my board from the photoshop.ie and Glenwood and cut it myself. Aways top quality.
Great, thanks for that Martin!. Just ordered the Fields of Piece book there a second ago. :D
Had a few dollars in my US account which was not enough for anything except on this occasion to give me free shipping :).
One is a small book called “Selected Photographs 1953 – 1999” Gives you an idea of his work although the pictures are quite small.
Also got his book called “Fields of Peace – A Pennsylvania German Album” this is a superb book, really like it and have gone through it a few times already, superb photographs of the Amish people. Lots of interesting text also. The book is very well put together and very well printed, all the pictures are superbly composed and printed, no fillers. A great book would defo recommend it, hope to buy another book or two of George Tice’s work…
Good to see people have got a few new books and also a few people bought Here Far Away, it is a great book.
I received my copy of Paul Strands, Sixty Years of Photographs. Its a very enjoyable book. Must look up some more of Albert Watsons work Mike. I have seen some of his pictures from time to time, must try to pick up a book.